Your hair deserves a little professional TLC. We’ve rounded up trichologist and dermatologist-approved hairstyles that help prevent breakage, protect edges, and keep your strands looking healthy — so you can slay without worry.
For Black women, hair is deeply tied to identity, self-expression, and cultural heritage. If there’s anything we take care of religiously, it’s probably our hair — some might even argue it ranks higher than our faces. But what happens when that “care,” that protective style, or that glam trip to the salon starts doing more harm than good? When high-tension hairstyles begin yanking your edges, weakening your scalp, or even contributing to conditions like traction alopecia or central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA)? These hair and scalp issues, often caused by repeated high-tension styles, can lead to thinning, breakage, and even permanent hair loss if not addressed.
As someone who only really gets her hair done every two months (mostly because life is chaotic and proper braids are a whole event), I’ve luckily avoided the hair apocalypse so far. But for others? The struggle is real. Imagine doing a high ponytail one month, then knotless braids the next, followed by a frontal wig installation — all back-to-back pulling, twisting, and tension. That, my friends, is what we call high-tension hairstyles.
For the most accurate, professional guidance, we sat down with two experts who specialise in Black haircare daily: Bamigbowu Oluwaseyi, a Certified Trichologist with the World Trichology Society and Lead Trichologist at Caremore Trichology Clinic, and Dr. Olufolakemi Cole-Adeife, award-winning Consultant Physician and Dermatologist at LASUTH. They shared key insights on protective styling, maintaining hair health, preventing hairline damage, and spotting early warning signs such as traction alopecia and CCCA.
Styles that might be putting strain on your hair
Sleek high bun or ponytail
When you’re experiencing a block on what hairstyle to rock, the high bun or ponytail feels like the easiest, most convenient option. But here’s the catch: to get that sleek, “everything-in-place” look, stylists have to tug at every single hair strand — especially those delicate front hairs — to get them perfectly up and tight. That constant pulling creates tension and, over time, can seriously damage your hair.
According to Dr Olufolakemi Cole-Adeife “The safest styles, especially for Afro-textured hair, are those that are low-tension, especially around the hairline, low-manipulation, and allow for regular scalp access and washing.”
She notes that while slick ponytails can look chic, anything tight or heavy around the edges increases the risk of long-term thinning or traction alopecia.
Excessively tight braids
I know we all want our braids to last for the longest time, so we have them gripped to the max, but here’s the thing: braids that are too tight can actually cause your front hair to pull out. Since braids grip the hair so snugly, tension is inevitable. From knotless braids to box braids to Ghana weaving, these styles sit close to the scalp, and if done too tight, can lead to breakage, thinning, and hairline damage over time.
Certified Trichologist Bamigbowu Oluwaseyi emphasises that: “People use the word protective without really knowing what it truly means: for a style to be considered protective, the installation and take down process must not put any tension on both the hair strands and the scalp.”She explains that even simple styles become damaging when they’re installed too tightly.
Dr Cole-Adeife adds that clinical studies have linked tight braids with traction alopecia, noting: “Very tight cornrows, braids, or Ghana weaves, especially with small sections and heavy extensions,” are among the highest-risk styles.
Wigs, weaves, and installs
I know it hurts to hear, but yes, that glue on your edges? It’s doing something to your hair, ladies. The nature of frontal wigs and glue application means the front strands are constantly being tugged and stressed. Over time, this gentle — but persistent — pull can weaken those precious edges.
Dr Cole-Adeife warns strongly against glue on the hairline, saying: “Wigs on well-fitted caps over loosely braided natural hair are safer — no glued frontals to the hairline, with tight wig bands.”
Edges
We all love a sleek edge, right? But here’s a common mistake: leaving edge control on for too long. Many of us style our baby hairs with edge control and forget to wash it out. Constantly coating those delicate hairs with product can strain them, leading to breakage and thinning.
Some other things highlighted that could be putting tension on your hair are:
Frequent use of chemical relaxers (less than 3 months between applications)
Frequent (more than once a month) hot comb or flat-iron use, especially when combined with traction styles
Infrequent hair washing (less than once every two weeks).
Frequent hair dyeing or bleaching can damage the hair shaft and irritate the scalp.
All of these and more can lead to follicle damage, scalp inflammation, hair breakage, and overgrowth of scalp yeasts, which may eventually result in traction alopecia or CCCA. The risk is greatest when several harmful practices are combined, such as using relaxers, colouring, heat styling, and tight braids or weaves in quick succession.
Read also: Cornrow alternatives — explore these low-maintenance hairstyles
Let’s ease the tension (literally)
By now, you’re probably thinking, “This is literally everything I do with my hair, do I need to stop styling it altogether?”
Don’t worry — it’s not that dramatic. You don’t have to give up all your favourite looks. The key is learning a few simple ways to manage high-tension styles so you can protect both your hair and your hairline while still looking fabulous.
Give your hair a break
As we mentioned earlier, some people go straight from one high-tension style to another with no rest in between. Back-to-back tension and constant gripping can take a toll on your hairline. After a high-tension style, let your hair breathe. Try a low-tension style, like loose cornrows, for 2–3 weeks and watch your hair thank you.
Dr Cole-Adeife reaffirms this:
“A practical, evidence-aligned recommendation would be to keep high-tension styles for less than 6 weeks and follow it with a low-tension, low manipulation style for about 4 weeks before the next high-tension style.”
Bamigbowu also advises moderation, saying:
“Use extensions on your hair 2–3 times a year, rotate your hair styles to avoid pulling in the same directions all the time.”
Be careful with wig glue
When installing wigs, try to keep the glue away from your hairline. It might take a little extra precision, but over time, it can make a huge difference in keeping your edges healthy.
Clean off the edge control
After rocking styled edges all day, always wash the edge control off. Even better: follow up with some hair cream or oil on your baby hair to give it extra life and protection.
Moisturise
Moisture is your hair’s best friend, yet it’s often overlooked. A little daily moisture goes a long way. Make it a habit to oil your hair regularly with lightweight products, especially before braiding or styling, to keep your strands strong and nourished.
Dr Cole-Adeife recommends gentle, balancing products, noting: “Wash every 1–3 weeks with a gentle, pH-balanced, conditioning shampoo. Avoid harsh, high-pH formulas… For edges, prioritise moisture and low tension.”
Expert-recommended hairstyles & tips
While the previous tips are great for everyday hair care, it’s best to hear it straight from the experts. Here, we explore low-tension hairstyles and suggest products to prevent breakage, strengthen thinning strands, and safeguard your edges. Think of it as your go-to guide for keeping your hair healthy without sacrificing style.
Low-tension, expert-approved hairstyles
The safest styles, especially for Afro-textured hair, are low-tension, particularly around the hairline. These are styles that aren’t tight or heavy, require minimal manipulation, and allow regular access to the scalp for cleansing and care. “Protective” only applies if the style is not painful, not excessively tight, and not left in for too long.
Before booking your next appointment, it essential to know which styles actually give your hair a break instead of a battle. Dr Cole-Adeife recommends styles like:
Afros
Loose up-dos
Loose thread styles
Wash-and-go
Loosely installed cornrows
Braids and twists installed gently, especially around the edges
Wigs on well-fitted caps over loosely braided natural hair
Bamigbowu adds that simple, low-manipulation options like two-strand twists and three-strand braids with your natural hair are ideal when installed without tension.
Products & ingredients experts swear by
Great hair care is about the ingredients, and not the logo on the bottle. Dr Cole-Adeife emphasises choosing products with the right components to support moisture, strengthen strands, and keep your scalp healthy.
Gentle, conditioning shampoos
Rinse-out conditioners + leave-ins
Light sealant oils or butters used sparingly
Soft, non-drying edge products
Read also: Braids are my go-to holiday hairstyle, but I have dry scalp. Luckily, these help me manage flaking
Warning signs your hair is stressed
Your hair is smarter than you think — it sends signals when it’s unhappy. From subtle tugging at the roots to more obvious thinning along the edges, learning to read these early warning signs can save your strands before serious damage sets in.
Bamigbowu notes a crucially important early sign:
“Once you feel any form of discomfort while trying to move your head… then it means there is tension on your scalp.”
According to our Dr Cole-Adeife, you should watch out for:
Pain or headaches from hairstyles
Redness, bumps, or tenderness along the hairline
Thinning edges or “fringe sign”
Burning, itching, or central scalp tenderness
Excessive shedding during take-down
Flaking with hair loss
The final strand — keep your looks, but listen to your hair
At the end of the day, regarding the hairstyles we make, what really matters is how often we repeat them, and whether we’re listening to our hair when it’s begging for a break. If there’s anything this journey (and this piece) has reminded me of, it’s that our hair is an important part of our very being. It remembers every slick-back, every braid, every install, every tug, and it deserves the same intentional care we pour into the rest of our beauty routines.
So if you love your knotless braids, your sleek buns, your melt-worthy frontals, or your signature ponytail, keep them — they’re not going anywhere. Just give your hair the same grace you give yourself on days when life feels overwhelming. Loosen the tension sometimes, moisturise, switch things up, remove products properly, sleep on satin and when in doubt, lean on the advice of professionals who understand Black hair deeply. Healthy hair isn’t about avoiding your favourite styles — it’s about making sure your hair is strong enough to enjoy them for years to come.
As Bamigbowu reminds us bluntly: “Remember, beauty should not be anyway painful. Let the goal of any hairstyle you plan to make be that your hair will remain on your scalp when taking it out.”
Read more: These trendy holiday hairstyles are the best for any destination
