Style isn’t just personal. It is shaped by power, race, and class.
Style is more than self-expression; it is a form of power. Being stylish isn’t just about personal taste; it is shaped by gender, race, and class. The industry has long catered to a privileged few, from front-row access at fashion weeks to who can afford the latest trends. But as fashion leans more into inclusivity, are the gates truly opening, or is the velvet rope just being repositioned?
Historically, style was a privilege reserved for the wealthy and socially accepted. Who gets to be stylish has always been shaped by money, societal norms, cultural representation, or the lack of it.
In today’s world of social media, streetwear, and rising alternative fashion movements, the old rules are being challenged. Style is no longer confined to glossy magazines and luxury houses. However, even with shifting barriers, they remain in place. The fashion industry still has unspoken rules about who belongs to its inner circle of style and who is just a guest.
Who can afford to be stylish?
Style has always been closely linked to wealth. From the lavish wardrobes of European aristocrats to today’s old-money elites, fashion has long been a signal of status. In the past, sumptuary laws in England and France restricted the use of certain fabrics and colours to the upper class, ensuring that style remained a privilege reserved for the rich.
In modern times, exclusivity in fashion is evident in different forms. Luxury brands thrive on their inaccessibility, with price tags only the wealthiest can afford. Even in today’s fast fashion and influencer-driven trends, old-money style — defined by quiet luxury, tailored pieces, and heritage brands — retains power.
Fashion is a social language, speaking volumes for those with generational wealth. Lately, I have been deep in Rich-Tok, the side of TikTok obsessed with the everyday lives of the ultra-wealthy. It is not just about what they wear but how they live, how they shop, where they dine, and the subtle privileges that separate them from everyone else. I have watched Becca Bloom and Chloe Liem stroll into Hermès without hesitation, knowing they have built the kind of relationship where a sales associate pulls out a coveted bag just for them. They also visit Van Cleef & Arpels, casually selecting jewellery that most people would have to wait months for—or be specially offered.
Yet, style is not exclusive to the rich. People worldwide have always found ways to express fashion beyond money—through thrift culture, streetwear, and DIY creativity. True style has never been about price tags; it has always been about personal expression.
Who holds the power in fashion?
While fashion is predominantly marketed towards women, the industry’s leadership remains largely male. Despite women being the key consumers and workforce driving the industry, men still hold the most influential positions. A clear example is the recent appointment of a male creative director to replace Donatella Versace at Versace. This move reflects a broader trend of major fashion houses like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga, where men lead creative visions despite women being responsible for the bulk of fashion sales.
In an era that champions inclusivity in fashion, why are men still positioned as the primary tastemakers? While women like Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior and Sarah Burton at Givenchy have made their mark, their roles remain the exception. Outside of leadership, gender norms in fashion remain rigid—women’s style choices are often criticised as too sexy, too plain, or too loud, while men embracing more fluid fashion still face scepticism.
African designers and black stylists shaping the fashion industry
For decades, fashion has been defined by Eurocentric beauty standards, prioritising white designers, models, and Western aesthetics. Even trends originating from black culture—braids, African textiles, or streetwear—often only gain mainstream appeal when adopted by white celebrities or designers.
Now, African designers and black creatives are redefining the industry. Nigerian designers like Lisa Folawiyo, Andrea Iyamah, Orange Culture showcase African craftsmanship on the global map, proving that luxury fashion goes beyond the West. Thebe Magugu, a South African designer, the first African winner of the LVMH Prize, and brands like Telfar Clemens are reimagining luxury with accessibility and inclusivity.
Black stylists have also played a crucial role in shaping global fashion. Law Roach, known for styling Zendaya, has been instrumental in pushing black talent to the forefront, championing designers like Christopher John Rogers. Ivy Coco Maurice, daughter of Sheryl Lee Ralph, curates her mother’s red-carpet looks with a modern yet classic touch. Blending vintage glamour with contemporary fashion. Melissa Holdbrook-Akposoe, known as Melissa’s Wardrobe, is the mastermind behind Stormzy’s sleek, tailored style, redefining luxury menswear with understated elegance. These stylists are not just dressing celebrities but shaping the industry’s vision of style and influence.
Black models and fashion’s inclusivity struggle
Black models have fought for visibility in an industry which has historically excluded them. Icons like Naomi Campbell paved the way, while newer faces like Adut Akech, Anok Yai, and Mayowa Nicholas prove that black beauty is a permanent force. Not a passing trend.
Nigerian models have particularly dominated runways for brands like Louis Vuitton, Valentino, and Versace. Despite this dominance, they still face challenges when it comes to securing editorial covers and major brand campaigns.
Furthermore, Black fashion influencers are reshaping the industry. By leveraging social media, they bypass traditional gatekeeping and set new standards. Wisdom Kaye has turned social media platforms into his personal runway, while Nigerian influencers like Nonye Udeogu, Hafsah Mohammed, and Fisayo Lounge that turned her social media fame into a thriving fashion business and amongst many others. Redefining style beyond Western norms. Through their impact, the industry is being pushed toward greater inclusivity and representation.
Despite the successes of these black designers, stylists, and influencers, the fashion industry still struggles with true inclusivity. These talents are celebrated during diversity pushes but sidelined when the trend fades. Lasting change goes beyond representation and inclusivity. It requires sustained power, resources, and influence. This is what Black creatives need to thrive in the industry.
So, who gets to be stylish?
Theoretically, everyone, but in reality, privilege still dictates who gets to be stylish and who must struggle for recognition. The reawakening of male dominance in creative leadership proves that progress in fashion isn’t always linear. While African designers and black stylists continue to break barriers, true inclusivity still seems far away. Fashion should be for everyone, but style will remain a privilege, not a right, until leadership diversifies, access expands, and representation goes beyond tokenism.
