An intimate, behind-the-scenes moment with Christian Dior Makeup’s legendary Creative and Image Director Peter Philips.
Where do you find inspiration?
I always start with the woman who will wear this make-up. Of course, I’m also inspired by art, photos, and movies, but I stay grounded in reality. If my work were just about my inspirations and obsessions, it would be too niche, too pretentious. I don’t work to satisfy myself, but to please women all over the world. This collection is all natural colours, even the brightest ones: brown, taupe, brick, beige, nude… I gave a lot of thought to what natural means. A nude look isn’t the same in the US as in France, Korea or the Middle East. It’s not even a question of skin tone. It’s about culture, climate, lifestyle. That’s why this new Rouge Dior collection has 70 colours.
The new lipsticks’ textures is amazing…
Women nowadays want something natural, easy, moisturising, and comforting. We’ve been putting more and more caring elements in our make-up for years. We work hand in hand with the chemists: if the lab develops the use of a new flower extract for a serum, they offer it to us, and the results are incredible. Their scientific creativity gives us new textures and new formulations that make our products feel better, look better, and stay longer. There is constant research and innovation behind every re-launch of our lipstick and foundation lines.
The models are very diverse. How did you approach each one?
I wanted to do accessible looks: complete but uncomplicated, looks you can try at home. I also wanted to embrace their unique beauty. Amelie is feisty, so I gave her a strong red lip. For Tomboy Maja, I wanted something more conceptual, like what Japanese designers did in the 90s: bold matte lips with nothing else. For Alyona, I wanted something Nordic, almost severe. Mouna has such great skin I played with red undertones and a pop of gold around the eyes. And I just had to try two different looks with doll-like Hyun Seo.
It’s so much work to do a shoot like that in a single day. How do you handle the pressure?
I’m a morning person, I get up very early. So when I arrive on set, I’m ready to go. And once I start, I don’t stop! (laughs) I don’t give myself time for doubt; for trial and error, I have to find the right direction immediately. It’s still teamwork, and I do step back when I can. But you have to know how to take the lead. I can be a little bit military sometimes (laughs).
Ideally, what would a woman tell you after you’ve done her makeup?
That she’s happy. I have two fantastic memories. 15 or 20 years ago, I did Mia Farrow’s make-up, and her reaction was: “I haven’t looked this good since the sixties!” That was great. The other one is with my mother. She never wanted me to do her makeup, she didn’t really get what my work was. And one day, as she was preparing to attend some big event with her husband, I finally convinced her to let me try. I could feel she was tense and defensive. But then my stepfather came in as I was almost done, and he exclaimed: “You’re so beautiful! I’m falling in love with you all over again!” And I felt her relax. That reaction from him was so special to me. That’s what I want. I want women to be happy and feel beautiful.
Peter Philips – Kiss From A Rose
Photographer: Guillaume Millet @guillaume_millet; Video Director and Editor: Alexandre Gamot @sadhillfilms; Fashion Editor: Florence Deladrière @flodeladriere; Make-up by Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Makeup @peterphilipsmakeup, @diorbeauty
Hyun Seo @hyunhyunhyun_0821 @kplus__official; Amelie Kopf @ameliekpf @premium_models; Maja Zimnoch @maja___zimnoch @imgmodels; Alyona Osmanova @alyonaosmanova @newmadisonmodels; Mouna Fadiga @mounafadiga @elitemodelworld
Hair: Peter Gray @petergrayhair @homeagency
Manicure: Sylvie Vacca @nailsbysylvievacca @callmyagent.fr
Fashion Assistant: Yamima Alexander @yamimasophia
Casting: Barbara Blanchard Casting @bb_casting