Low-rise is back — but not how you remember it. Once seen as too provocative, Alexander McQueen’s bumster pants are crawling their way back onto modern runways. Let’s revisit the history of fashion’s cheekiest creation — literally.
As someone who loves the low-rise trend — the way pants or skirts sit on the upper hips to create that effortlessly cool, laid-back silhouette — you can imagine my shock when I discovered bumster pants.
We’ve all heard of bum shorts, those teeny-tiny shorts that hug your legs and behind so snugly they might as well be painted on. But you see bumster pants? That’s a whole different level. Think low-rise pants that go way too low — so low that people around you can actually see the top of your derrière. Yes, you read that right. The person next to you, behind you, or even across from you might catch a glimpse of your “cleft” — the line separating your two cheeks.
The design is the brainchild of the late Alexander McQueen in the early ’90s. Though controversial at the time due to its daring cut and unapologetic display of skin, its influence has begun to creep back into today’s collections from Diesel to McQueen’s own runway, proving that fashion’s boldest ideas never really die.
Revisiting the history of the legendary bumster
The bumster first made its way into the spotlight in 1993 during McQueen’s second collection, Taxi Driver, created for the Autumn/Winter 1993 season under the Alexander McQueen label.
You could say that this was McQueen’s “bad boy” debut — the moment he introduced himself to the fashion space as a designer who wasn’t afraid to provoke. From his early days, his designs explored dark, erotic, and sometimes disturbing themes, forcing people to rethink beauty and the body itself.
On the topic of the bumster and the exposing of the cleft, McQueen said, “To me, that part of the body — not so much the buttocks but the bottom of the spine — that’s the most erotic part of anyone’s body, man or woman,” The Guardian
For McQueen, the bumster wasn’t about vulgarity — it was about anatomy, sensuality, and rebellion.
During preparation for the collection, times were tough in the British economy. Designers could hardly afford runway shows, so the government hosted an exhibition for a few chosen talents at The Ritz Hotel — McQueen being one of them. This being the first instance, the bumsters came into the scene.
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The bumster on the runway
The bumster returned the following season, in McQueen’s third collection,” Nihilism” (Spring/Summer 1994). During Taxi Driver, McQueen couldn’t afford a proper runway, so he simply exhibited his pieces and tried his best to sell. But “Nihilism” marked his first real fashion show — and what a debut it was.
“The collection drew inspiration from punk subculture — raw, rebellious, and boldly unapologetic.” Models were instructed to embody that same defiance on the runway, and it was a moment of beauty that made people uncomfortable.
You can imagine the shock on the journalists’ faces as they witnessed exposed butt cracks walking the runway — something that, at the time, was unthinkable. Even the models hesitated to wear the pieces — but they eventually did, knowing they were part of fashion history in the making.
Throughout his career, McQueen was accused of being a misogynist, but he constantly fought back and claimed he wasn’t. For him, it was about empowerment, not exploitation. He often defended his designs, saying he wanted women to feel strong and empowered.
The bumster became a defining McQueen signature — reappearing throughout his career and solidifying his reputation as the industry’s fearless rule-breaker.
In recent times: The bumster revival on runways
As the original spark behind the Y2K low-rise trend, the bumster’s influence still runs through modern fashion. In recent seasons, it’s been reimagined on runways with ultra-low-waist skirts, low-hanging pants, and silhouettes that hint at the same daring spirit. Designers have taken McQueen’s original rebellion and spun it in fresh, fearless ways.
Diesel FW25
At Diesel’s FW25 show, creative director Glenn Martens revived the bumster spirit in the most Diesel way possible. The runway, drenched in graffiti and created in collaboration with 7000 artists, set the stage for the showcase of tweed, wool, and denim. The show ended with three jaw-dropping reworks of the bumster jeans — each one a shout out to McQueen’s legacy, but through Diesel’s gritty, youthful lens.
Read more: Jeans are still the ultimate wardrobe staple—here’s why!
Alexander McQueen SS26
For SS26, McQueen’s creative director Seán McGirr paid a direct homage to the house’s heritage. The iconic bumster made a striking return in a range of looks — from jackets layered over low-waist jeans and sheer see-through fabrics to sleek cargo-style bumsters paired with corsets.
It wasn’t just reimagining, but McGirr took McQueen’s boldest statement and recontextualised it for a generation that loves to flirt with controversy, but on its own terms.
How to wear the bumster in 2025
Now, styling the bumster isn’t exactly a walk in the park — unless that park happens to be a fashion week runway. It takes a mix of courage, balance, and the right outfit to channel McQueen-level confidence — without risking a wardrobe malfunction. The trick is styling it in a way that feels modern, playful, and confidently 2025. Here’s your guide to wearing the bumster this year — and feeling as bold as ever while doing it.
Balance the low with the short: If your pants are barely hanging on, you want to fully lean into it — think tight fighting tops, crop tops, or cropped jackets to really let that spine have its moment.
Play with the shoes: Pair your low-rise with chunky boots, a sleek heel, or even some simple sneakers.
Accessorise like it’s 2000: Bring out the tiny belts that serve no practical purpose, belly chains, and your mum’s jewellery from the 90s to really complete the ensemble.
Wear your bumster with confidence: Bumsters are about attitude and confidence. Stand tall, own your waistline and strut like half of the people on the BRT can’t see your buttcrack. Once again, confidence is everything.
Is crack really back?
For the bold dressers and risk-takers, the bumster might be a look worth trying. For others, not so much. It is definitely not for the faint of heart.
Fashion sometimes can be too serious, as it should, but the bumster reminds us that not everything has to be perfect or polished. Sometimes, it’s about loosening up both mentally and sartorially. Maybe that’s the real magic of the bumster: it asks us to rethink what’s “too much,” to find happiness in being cheeky, and yes — to feel the breeze on our cheeks.
Whether the newer generation will fully embrace it remains to be seen. But with Gen Z’s playful flexibility, love of self-expression and love for revival trends, it’s safe to say anything can happen.
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