It’s time to get the radiant complexion you deserve, so we’re breaking down all you need to know about exfoliation.
I once caught myself almost believing an exfoliation myth. I was standing in my bathroom, holding a gentle Alpha Hydroxy Acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic acid) toner I’d been excited to try. Then, I stumbled across a video claiming that exfoliating dry skin can cause permanent irritation and strip away “protective layers”. My stomach dropped.
Wrong information spreads fast on social media and can steer you in the wrong direction concerning your skincare routine. In reality, that AHA toner turned out to be perfect for my occasionally flaky skin. Gentle chemical exfoliation with a well-formulated product, when used correctly, lifts away dead cells, so your moisturiser can do its job. Yes, AHAs can cause mild redness or stinging if overused, but using the right product in moderate proportions is safe and beneficial for dry skin.
If you’ve ever found yourself paralysed in the skincare aisle, wondering whether that salicylic acid serum will help or harm your complexion, you’re not alone. These persistent exfoliation myths have turned one of skincare’s most effective tools into something that feels unnecessarily intimidating. Don’t fret, I’ve got you. Let’s debunk those fear-mongering myths and help you exfoliate safely for your best glow.
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Exfoliation myths you should stop believing
Before we bust the myths messing with your glow, let’s get one thing straight: exfoliation isn’t some complicated beauty ritual. It is simply the process of removing dead skin cells from your skin’s surface to reveal the fresh, healthy cells underneath. There are two main ways to help this process along:
Physical exfoliation uses granular textures like scrubs with sugar, salt, or even coffee grounds to remove dead skin.
Chemical exfoliation uses acids or enzymes to dissolve the bonds holding dead cells together, essentially convincing them to leave without any scrubbing.
The chemical route typically involves:
AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid that work on the skin’s surface.
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) like salicylic acid can penetrate the pores.
PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) like gluconolactone that offer gentler exfoliation for sensitive skin.
Enzymes from fruits like papaya and pineapple that break down dead skin proteins.
Now that we’ve covered the exfoliation basics, let’s tackle the myths that might be standing between you and your best skin:
Myth 1: Exfoliation is harmful for flaky or dry skin
Avoiding exfoliation when you have dry, flaky skin is like refusing to sweep your floors because you’re afraid of raising dust. Those dead cells sitting on the surface are actually blocking your expensive moisturisers from working properly.
Gentle chemical exfoliants like lactic acid (historically derived from milk and now mostly lab-made) work by dissolving the “glue” that holds dead cells together. Think of it as helping your skin do what it’s already trying to do — shed dead skin. Studies have shown that lactic acid has low skin irritation, and it does not lead to severe adverse reactions or persistent erythema.
Myth 2: You need to scrub your skin hard
The “scrub harder, get cleaner” mentality might work for dirty dishes, but not your face. Physical scrubs with rough particles can create microscopic tears in your skin. It’s like dragging sandpaper across a balloon. These microtears lead to irritation, broken capillaries, and even more breakouts as bacteria find new entry points.
Chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs(salicylic acid) work differently. Instead of scraping the surface, they gently dissolve dead skin cells so they lift away without friction. It’s the difference between using a sledgehammer and a key to open a door. Both get you in, but one causes far less collateral damage.
Myth 3: Exfoliating with acids is scary
Let’s address the elephant in the room. These are “acids,” but so are vitamin C and the citric acid in your morning orange juice. The concentration makes all the difference. Most over-the-counter AHAs (like glycolic or lactic acid) are in the 5–10% range, with some up to 20%, while professional peels can reach 50–70%.
AHAs and BHAs in home-use products are carefully formulated with safe pH levels and buffering agents. Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane and salicylic acid from willow bark (now mostly lab-made for consistency). When you follow directions and start exfoliating slowly followed by daily SPF, you’ll have brighter, smoother skin.
Myth 4: Sensitive skin doesn’t need exfoliation
This myth has left many people with sensitive skin stuck with dullness and clogged pores. Avoiding exfoliation completely can allow dead cells to build up, leading to more irritation or breakouts.
The key is changing your strategy, not skipping the step. Ultra-gentle options like fruit enzymes from papaya or pineapple, or a low-concentration lactic acid once or twice a week. This can keep pores clear and improve skin texture without stripping the barrier. It’s all about finding your skin’s sweet spot: just enough exfoliation to see results, not enough to trigger a reaction.
Myth 5: You should exfoliate every day
This myth has probably caused more damaged skin than any other myth. Your skin naturally renews itself approximately every month, and over exfoliation interrupts this process instead of helping it.
Signs of over-exfoliation include lingering redness, sensitivity, irritation, and breakouts. If your skin has that tight, “squeaky clean” feeling, it’s actually crying for help. Dermatologists recommend exfoliating 1–3 times per week, and twice weekly might be the sweet spot for a healthy, glowing complexion.
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Why exfoliation should be part of your skincare routine
You know that feeling when you finally clean your glasses after weeks of smudges, and you see the world in high definition again? That’s what proper exfoliation does for your skin. In this case, you’re revealing the smooth, glowing skin that’s been hiding under a layer of cellular debris.
Your skin becomes visibly smooth
As we age and experience stress from the sun and pollution, our skin’s natural renewal process slows down. Dead cells start piling up, leaving your skin rough and dull. Exfoliation clears that buildup, revealing the soft, smooth texture of your skin.
Your expensive skincare starts working
Here’s a frustrating truth: without exfoliation, that expensive vitamin C serum might just be sitting on top of dead skin cells. Buildup acts like plastic wrap, blocking your serums and moisturisers from doing their best work. Once you clear that layer, hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid can absorb more effectively, and your niacinamide can visibly improve texture and tone instead of just lingering on the surface.
Your pores get the deep clean they’ve been begging for
Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can work its way into pores and dissolve the combination of sebum and dead skin cells that lead to blackheads and whiteheads. Regular use minimises the appearance of pores and reduces the risk of inflamed breakouts. It smoothens and clears your skin over time.
Dark spots and uneven tone start to fade (but only with sunscreen as your wingman)
Exfoliation helps lift away pigmented surface cells, which makes dark spots from sun exposure or post-breakout marks fade faster. However, there’s a catch that social media often skips: freshly exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to UV damage.
Without daily use of sunscreen, you risk undoing your progress and triggering hyperpigmentation. Without applying sunscreen after exfoliation, you may never see results.
Read also: Quenching our skin’s thirst: The ultimate guide to hydrating serums for dry skin in humid cities
How to exfoliate the right way
Forget everything you’ve seen in those satisfying skincare TikToks where people vigorously scrub their faces. The proper way to exfoliate is to be gentle and intentional.
Find your skin’s sweet spot
Your skin type can be oily, dry, or a combination of both, depending on hormones, stress, or the weather. That’s why what works for you in the summer might feel too harsh during cold seasons. Sensitive skin may only tolerate a gentle lactic acid exfoliant once a week, while oily skin can handle salicylic acid up to three times weekly. The key is to start slow and let your skin set the pace.
Choose your exfoliant wisely
AHAs work on the surface to smooth texture and brighten dullness. They’re perfect for dry skin or anti-ageing goals. BHAs (salicylic acid) dive deep into pores, making them ideal for oily, acne-prone skin. PHAs (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid) are the gentle giants, offering mild exfoliation for sensitive skin types. It’s not about collecting exfoliants; just find the one that makes your skin happy and stick with it.
Moisturise and protect like your glow depends on it (because it does)
Exfoliated skin without proper follow-up care is just all shades of wrong. Your freshly revealed skin cells are more permeable and vulnerable, so they need that moisture barrier rebuilt. Think lightweight, hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or ceramides. Follow these with sunscreen every morning — even on cloudy days, or when you’re working from home.
Patience beats aggression every single time
I know you want glass skin immediately, but your skin didn’t get congested overnight, and it won’t clear up that fast either. Consistent, gentle exfoliation over months will always trump aggressive daily scrubbing that damages your skin barrier and sets you back weeks. Slow and steady wins the race, and the prize is healthy, clear skin.
Exfoliation myths don’t just waste your money — they can also rob you of your confidence. When you understand how exfoliation actually works and respect your skin’s natural processes, it becomes a simple tool that helps you look and feel like the best version of yourself. Your skin has been waiting for you to get this right, and it’s about time you both got what you deserve.
