Two years ago, my skin was a battlefield. Today, it’s a testament to the power of a simple, strategic change. If you’ve ever felt overwhelmed by endless skincare trends or are simply tired of battling your own complexion, then my journey with skin cycling might just be the revelation you’ve been searching for.
My journey to genuinely happy skin didn’t begin with a prescription, a grand revelation, or even a meticulously planned intervention. It started exactly where all profound life changes do these days: scrolling aimlessly through TikTok. Who knew that nestled between dance challenges and cat videos lay the secret to liberating my complexion? Two years ago, fresh off a sabbatical from antidepressants and anti-anxiety meds, my skin was vocally protesting. It was a chaotic landscape of confusion, a visual symphony of “What just happened?” leaving me yearning for the simple comfort of normal skin.
Before this digital divine intervention, my skincare routine was less a routine and more a demolition derby. I was the proud owner of every harsh mechanical exfoliator known to humankind — scrubbing my face like it owed me money, convinced “squeaky clean and tight” meant healthy. I also had a knack for mixing active ingredients with the reckless abandon of a mad scientist, yielding results that were less “glow” and more “glow-in-the-dark irritation.” Retinoids? Never heard of them.
Then, Dr. Whitney Bowe, the brilliant mind behind skin cycling, popped up on my feed. Her calm, logical explanation of strategic skincare felt like a soothing balm to my over-exfoliated soul. It was structured, sensible, and shockingly simple. The lightbulb didn’t just go off; it threw a party. I realised I could stop fighting my skin and actually work with it. Fast forward , I’ve been skin cycling for two plus years, and let me be crystal clear: I will never be going back. This isn’t just a skincare routine. It’s the quiet understanding that sometimes, the profound changes come from simply giving your skin a break, and a chance to breathe.
What exactly is skin cycling?
So, what exactly is this “skin cycling” I’m raving about? If you’re picturing me on a stationary bike slathering on serums, you’re on the wrong track — though that might make for an interesting TikTok trend. Simply put, skin cycling is a strategic, four-night (or sometimes longer) rotation of your evening skincare products designed to maximise their efficacy while minimising irritation.
@drwhitneybowe Skin care cycling for healthy skin! #thatboweglow #dermatologist #doctorsoftiktok ♬ original sound – Dr. Whitney Bowe
It’s about working with your skin, not against it, by giving it active ingredients on specific nights and crucial recovery time in between. Think of it as a strategic rotation for your skincare products. It ensures each active ingredient has its moment to work effectively without overwhelming your skin or causing irritation.
The typical skin cycling schedule, as popularised by Dr. Bowe, follows this pattern:
Night 1: Exfoliation
This is your resurfacing night. After cleansing, you apply a chemical exfoliant (like an AHA or BHA — or both) to slough off dead skin cells, clear pores, and brighten your complexion. The goal here is gentle renewal, not aggressive scrubbing.
Night 2: Retinoid
This is the powerhouse night. After cleansing and ensuring your skin is completely dry, you apply your retinoid. This night leverages the fresh, newly exfoliated skin to help the retinoid penetrate more effectively, boosting collagen production, reducing fine lines, and improving skin texture.
Nights 3 & 4: Recovery
These are your “skin truce” nights. After cleansing, the focus shifts entirely to hydration, barrier repair, and soothing. You load up on rich moisturisers, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and anything that helps restore your skin’s protective barrier. This allows your skin to heal and rebuild after the active ingredients from the previous nights, preventing irritation and making it more receptive for the next cycle.
Read also: Are retinoids the skincare holy grail? Experts weigh in
Now, do I stick to this 2-2 pattern religiously? For the most part, yes, because it works. However, after two years, I’ve also learned to listen to my skin. There are times I might extend a recovery night if my skin feels particularly sensitive, or if I’m travelling or experiencing a bout of dryness due to Lagos’s ever-changing humidity. For instance, during the dry harmattan season, those recovery nights might stretch to three or even four, ensuring my barrier stays intact. The core principle remains – active nights followed by dedicated recovery — but the exact number of recovery nights can be flexible.
In my opinion, the profound philosophy behind skin cycling boils down to respect and synergy. It’s about understanding that more isn’t always better, and that your skin barrier is the unsung hero of healthy skin. It works because it prevents the common pitfalls of aggressive, daily active use: over-exfoliation, irritation, compromised barrier function, and ultimately, ineffective products. By allowing your skin ample time to recover, you’re not just preventing damage; you’re actually optimising its ability to benefit from those potent actives. It’s a system that truly supports the skin’s natural renewal process, leading to the kind of consistent, resilient glow that makes you wonder why you ever did it any other way.
My first spin on the cycle
When I first dipped my toes into the world of skin cycling, my product lineup was carefully curated for a beginner, focusing on gentle introductions rather than shock-and-awe tactics. For my exfoliation night, I started with Good Molecules Overnight Exfoliation Serum, which provided that much-needed gentle resurfacing without stripping my skin. For the crucial retinoid night, I used a prescription tretinoin gel at a 0.025% concentration from Menarini. This was my first foray into retinoids, and I opted for a lower strength to ease my skin into it. On my recovery nights, my focus was squarely on hydration and barrier support. I relied on Dr. Rashel Vitamin C Face Serum and Hyaluronic Acid (applied on separate recovery nights, or sometimes just the hyaluronic acid), a hydrating moisturiser from Simple, and a refreshing spritz of rose water to keep my skin calm and plump.
As expected with retinoids, my skin definitely had some thoughts about its new routine. I experienced the dreaded “retinol purge,” which manifested as a temporary increase in breakouts, particularly around my chin and jawline. But the more noticeable, and frankly uncomfortable, reaction was the dryness and flaking, especially around my nose and mouth. It felt like my skin was parched even after applying moisturiser.
This is where the flexibility and understanding of skin cycling really came into play. Instead of giving up, I immediately adjusted my approach to the “sandwich method” for my retinoid nights. This involved applying a thin layer of my Simple hydrating moisturiser before the retinol, and then another layer of moisturiser after the retinol had absorbed. This simple tweak made an enormous difference, significantly reducing the dryness and allowing my skin to acclimate without excessive discomfort.
Despite the initial purging, I was genuinely surprised by how quickly I started seeing positive changes. Within a little over a week, my skin felt smoother to the touch, and there was a subtle improvement in its overall texture. The immediate results were incredibly motivating, a clear sign that I was finally on the right track after years of misguided skincare efforts.
Refining the rhythm of my skin
Two years is a long time in the world of skincare trends, but for me, it’s been a journey of deepening understanding and consistent results. My skin cycling routine has certainly evolved, becoming more sophisticated as my skin’s needs have changed and my confidence in the method has grown.
One product love affair that has endured is the Good Molecules Overnight Exfoliation Serum. From that very first application, I was smitten, and it remains my go-to chemical exfoliant to this day. Its gentle yet effective resurfacing is simply unmatched for my skin. Recently, I’ve started experimenting with Garnier’s AHA + BHA Serum with Charcoal as an alternative on some exfoliation nights, and it’s been a welcome addition, but the Good Molecules serum holds its place as my favourite.
My retinoid journey has also progressed. My skin, now well-accustomed to the cycle, has happily welcomed an upgrade. I’ve successfully increased my retinoid strength to 0.05%, seeing enhanced benefits in texture and overall clarity without the initial dryness drama. This gradual increase is a testament to skin cycling’s philosophy: introduce actives strategically, allow recovery, and build tolerance.
Read also: Beauty experts share tips for glowing skin in humid weather
My recovery nights, once anchored by Dr. Rashel, have also undergone a beautiful transformation. I’ve discovered incredible local gems that have become staples in my routine. I now absolutely adore HLR Drops from Arami Essentials for their nourishing properties, and Junederm’s Plumping Hydration Complex Serum has become a non-negotiable for its intense hydration. I also regularly incorporate Skin by Zaron’s 10% Niacinamide Serum for barrier support and brightening, and Garnier’s Even & Matte Vitamin C Booster Serum for an antioxidant boost. And for that extra layer of soothing, I rely on Arami’s Eden’s Elixir, also from Arami Essentials, a wonderful balancing toner that my skin truly drinks up. I love Uncover’s Rooibos Glow Toner too. These additions haven’t complicated my routine; rather, they’ve deepened its effectiveness, tailored to my skin’s evolving needs.
Navigating life’s curveballs, from the erratic weather shifts — particularly the stark dryness of harmattan – to periods of stress or travel, has often been where skin cycling truly shines. When my skin feels particularly dry or reactive, perhaps after prolonged exposure to the intense sun or during the dusty harmattan winds, I don’t panic. Instead, I simply extend my recovery nights. What might typically be a 2-day recovery stretch can easily become 3 or even 4 days, ensuring my skin barrier has ample time to repair and strengthen. This flexibility is a game-changer; it prevents flare-ups and means I’m not constantly battling my skin.
Today, skin cycling isn’t just a routine; it’s an ingrained part of my lifestyle that feels incredibly intuitive and easy to maintain. It has simplified my relationship with skincare, replacing confusion and frustration with clarity and consistency. There’s no guesswork, no worrying about product conflicts, just a clear, effective path to healthy, glowing skin. It has become a dependable rhythm in my day-to-day life, providing a sense of control and confidence, no matter what external factors my skin might be facing.
I’m never going back
After two years, my commitment to skin cycling isn’t just strong; it’s absolute. This isn’t merely a skincare routine; it’s become an ingrained part of my life, offering benefits that extend far beyond just my complexion.
My top reasons for being utterly devoted to skin cycling are multifaceted. Firstly, it has profoundly simplified my routine. Before skin cycling, I was easily swayed by every new trend and product hype, leading to a chaotic, often counterproductive approach. Now, I’m remarkably unfazed by the latest “must-have” serum. My focus has shifted from constant acquisition to intentional application, chilling out and truly listening to what my skin needs, not what a fleeting trend dictates.
Secondly, and perhaps most unexpectedly, skin cycling has imbued my evenings with a sense of ritual and meaning. The structured simplicity of the routine has become a cherished part of my winding-down process. There’s a calm predictability to it — knowing exactly what my skin needs on a given night helps me approach my routine with ease and intention, turning what used to be a stressful task into a mindful moment of self-care. It provides a much-needed stability in my daily life, a consistent anchor in a sometimes unpredictable world.
Read also: The truth about SPF: why daily sunscreen is non-negotiable in this age of misinformation
This commitment stems from a core belief in its efficacy. Skin cycling stands out from other skincare approaches I’ve tried because it is incredibly practical and easy to follow. It eschews the ridiculous, overwhelming 7-step routines that promise everything but deliver burnout. Instead, it offers a simple, effective, and straightforward method that truly respects the skin’s natural processes. It’s not about piling on; it’s about strategic layering and intentional rest.
And yes, it has absolutely saved me money in the long run. I am no longer that person grabbing every single skincare product off the shelf, driven by the fear of missing out or the misguided belief that more equals better. My purchases are now deliberate and targeted, reducing wasteful spending on products that would likely have irritated my skin anyway.
The most tangible benefits, however, are etched directly onto my skin. Skin cycling has been a revelation for its ability to deliver consistent, visible improvements. My breakouts have significantly reduced, no longer a persistent source of frustration. The texture of my skin is remarkably smoother and more refined, a stark contrast to the rough, congested feel of my pre-cycling days. My skin tone is far more even, with a noticeable reduction in hyperpigmentation and a brighter overall appearance. Crucially, my skin sensitivity has plummeted. The constant redness and reactivity I once experienced are largely gone, replaced by a calm, resilient complexion that rarely flares up. While I wasn’t initially focused on anti-aging benefits, the retinoid incorporation has undoubtedly contributed to a subtle plumpness and reduction in early fine lines.
Ultimately, skin cycling has had a profound impact on my skin’s overall health and resilience. My skin barrier, once constantly compromised, is now robust and healthy. It feels stronger, less prone to environmental stressors, and recovers far more quickly from minor irritations. It’s truly a journey from chaos to calm, and a testament to the power of thoughtful, cyclical care.
Your first spin: Advice for aspiring skin cyclists
If my two-year journey has taught me anything, it’s that skin cycling is a path to healthier skin that is both effective and sustainable. For anyone looking to embark on this transformative routine, here are my top tips and insights to help you start strong and stay consistent:
Embrace consistency with joyful products
My absolute number one tip is to find products you genuinely enjoy using. Skincare shouldn’t feel like a chore. When you look forward to applying your chosen exfoliant, retinoid, or moisturiser, you’re more likely to stick with the routine. Remember, expensive doesn’t always equate to better; there are fantastic, affordable options. Don’t be afraid to keep those accessible, effective favorites in your roster. Consistency is the true magic ingredient here, and finding products you love is the key to unlocking it.
Start low and go slow with retinoids
If you’re new to retinoids, this is the one active where I strongly recommend caution with. If possible, consult a dermatologist before you begin. They can assess your skin type, concerns, and recommend the most suitable starting strength. While there are excellent over-the-counter retinoids available, a prescription strength will require professional oversight. Even with OTC options, starting with a lower concentration and gradually increasing as your skin builds tolerance is crucial. The goal is progress, not purging your skin into submission!
Commit to products you can sustain
Yes, product selection is important, but not in the way you might think. It’s less about having the “best” and more about having “the right” products that you can easily maintain. Focus on fundamental product types: a gentle cleanser, your chosen chemical exfoliant, your retinoid, and high-quality hydrating and barrier-supporting moisturisers. Don’t feel pressured to buy every single trending product. Choose wisely, ensuring your selections align with your budget and your skin’s basic needs.
Consult a professional for specific conditions
While skin cycling can work wonders for general skin health, if you have specific skin conditions like PCOS, severe acne, rosacea, or eczema, please consult a doctor or dermatologist. These conditions often require specialised medical treatment that complements, rather than replaces, a good skincare routine. Skin cycling can be an excellent adjunct, but it’s not a substitute for professional medical advice.
Don’t forget your daytime defense
Remember, skin cycling is primarily a nighttime routine focused on active treatment and recovery. This means your daytime routine becomes even more critical. Always ensure your mornings include a robust SPF to protect your skin from sun damage. This is especially important after using actives. Adequate moisture and barrier-protecting actives like Vitamin C or antioxidants are very important too. It’s a holistic approach – what you do in the morning supports what you do at night.
Have some patience
Finally, and I cannot stress this enough: patience is paramount. You won’t see dramatic changes overnight. But, with faithful adherence to the cycle, you’ll witness a profound, lasting transformation in your skin’s health and appearance. Trust the process, listen to your skin, and enjoy the journey to a more balanced, resilient complexion.
Why skin cycling isn’t just a routine — it’s my skin’s future
The shift from a stressed, reactive complexion to the skin I have today is directly attributable to skin cycling. For over two years, it has systematically undone the damage of past routines and built a stronger, healthier foundation. My skin now navigates everything from the harmattan dust to daily stresses with remarkable grace. This is a stark contrast to its former fragile state.
This transformation goes beyond appearance. Skin cycling has profoundly simplified my life, turning my evening skincare from a confusing chore into a truly restorative ritual. The stability it offers, the smart product usage, and the clarity it brings to my routine are invaluable. It’s the practical, no-nonsense approach that delivers real results without the overwhelm.
There’s no turning back for me. I’ve been skin cycling for two plus years, and I will never be going back. This isn’t merely a preference; it’s the definitive method that has given me enduring skin health and peace of mind. Your skin journey is unique, but if consistent, healthy results are your goal, consider giving your complexion the strategic care it deserves.
