Licensed aesthetician Bebe Andrew-Jaja shares her pro tips for using niacinamide — the game-changer for treating spots and uneven skin tone.
Niacinamide is a skincare product widely praised for helping women achieve an even skin tone. The promise of faded dark spots, smoother texture, and that elusive even skin tone makes it a sought-after product. While procuring it is easy, many still struggle to see the transformative results this product promises.
Niacinamide is more than just another skincare ingredient —It’s a form of vitamin B3 with proven benefits for hyperpigmentation, oil control, and barrier repair. However, like any powerful active, its effectiveness depends entirely on how you use it. The products you pair it with or the way it’s used can sabotage your results. Getting niacinamide right also requires more than just slapping it on your face and hoping for the best.
It is a powerhouse ingredient that’s been quietly revolutionising hyperpigmentation treatment worldwide. You might have heard about it, but how does it work for Black skin? What are the best practices for the Nigerian climate and lifestyle? Most importantly, how can you use it safely to achieve the glowing, even-toned skin you desire?
I spoke with Bebe Andrew-Jaja, a licensed aesthetician and laser technician, on the best ways to use niacinamide. With years of experience treating Nigerian women’s skincare concerns, she’s seen firsthand what works — and what doesn’t — when it comes to this celebrated ingredient. Her journey began with her struggles with dermatographia, and this sparked a passion for finding effective solutions for melanin-rich skin.
If you struggle with hyperpigmentation or need the right products in your routine, here’s everything you need to know about niacinamide.
Read also: Everything you need to know about hyperpigmentation
Niacinamide works best with patience and consistency
Niacinamide doesn’t deliver dramatic results overnight, unlike harsher actives like tretinoin, which forces rapid exfoliation. It works by gradually repairing the skin barrier, calming inflammation, and reducing the appearance of dark spots over time. This slow‑and‑steady approach is what makes it perfect for sensitive skin. Bebe emphasises a consistent long‑term approach: “Niacinamide is a long‑game ingredient; missing days will slow its results.”
Her advice highlights a simple truth: the key to getting niacinamide’s benefits isn’t speed but commitment to a consistent routine.
Which skincare ingredients pair well with niacinamide?
Combining niacinamide with suitable supporting ingredients can enhance its effects further. According to Bebe, these are the trusted combinations for fading dark spots and achieving a more even complexion with niacinamide.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid or derivatives): boosts brightening and antioxidant protection.
Alpha Arbutin: targets pigmentation pathways for faster fading of dark spots.
Licorice Root Extract: calms inflammation while reducing melanin production.
Retinol: speeds up cell turnover, helping niacinamide’s brightening effect show sooner. It’s advisable to use it at night.
Exfoliating Acids (AHA/BHA): preps the skin for niacinamide to penetrate more effectively.
This layering strategy prevents overloading the skin with harmful and unnecessary products. When you constantly combine niacinamide with a couple of complementary actives, you amplify its results without risking irritation.
How do you use it for best results?
With niacinamide, results come from consistency and a dedicated routine. If you have sensitive skin, Bebe stresses the importance of starting slow: “Start with a lower concentration rather than jumping straight to 10%. Use niacinamide every other day for the first two weeks, then increase the frequency.”. She also recommends pairing niacinamide with a gentle moisturiser to buffer any potential irritation and avoiding too many new actives at once.
Layering the products correctly matters, too. “Apply after cleansing and toning, before heavier creams,” Bebe explains. “Layer water‑based niacinamide serums before oil‑based products for maximum absorption.
According to Bebe, the best way to introduce this ingredient is through a simple morning/night regimen:
Morning routine: cleanser, toner, niacinamide serum, moisturiser, sunscreen
Night routine: cleanser, toner, niacinamide serum, retinol, moisturiser. Introducing retinol helps to speed up cell turnover.”
When you follow this approach, niacinamide can become your ally for a healthy skin glow.
Read also: Quenching our skin’s thirst: The ultimate guide to hydrating serums for dry skin in humid cities
What are the mistakes to avoid while using niacinamide?
Even the best ingredient won’t work if you use it wrongly. Bebe advises us to avoid these common mistakes that hinder the results of niacinamide:
Expecting instant results: Niacinamide doesn’t work overnight. It typically takes several weeks of consistent use for dark spots to fade. If you expect instant results, you might give up too soon and miss its real benefits.
Using too much, especially higher than 10%: Overloading your skin with strong niacinamide serums can cause redness, tingling, or irritation without giving faster results. A 2–10% formula is effective for most skin types, especially if you’re new to actives.
Not pairing with sunscreen: Without SPF, UV rays undo the brightening work and can trigger new spots. Daily sunscreen is the shield that makes it effective.
These mistakes cause irritation and darken your pigmentation regardless of your use. This is especially important for those of us living in Nigeria. With the intense UV exposure, skipping SPF doesn’t just undo niacinamide’s brightening effects; it makes dark spots even worse. Daily sunscreen isn’t optional; it’s the shield that allows niacinamide work effectively.
Expert-recommended products
lazyloadBebe recommends the Perfect B3 niacinamide. This serum is designed to target dark spots and promote an even, healthy‑looking complexion.
Our beauty editor also recommends the Anua niacinamide serum, which has helped her clear dark spots and even out her skin tone. She pairs it with vitamin C serum before her moisturiser every morning and night.
Niacinamide may not deliver overnight results, but with patience, consistency, and sun protection, it can transform your skin. The secret to lasting results is a dedicated and consistent routine. Commit to the long game, and your glow will follow.
