Tolu Coker isn’t just making clothes—she’s serving culture, style, and a lot of meaning on a runway-sized platter.
With a fresh LVMH Prize semi-finalist nomination under her belt, British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker is having a defining moment. Her latest collection, Ori – Upon Reflection, debuted on 24th February 2025 at London Fashion Week, offering a deeply personal exploration of heritage. Identity, and the fluidity of culture. If she wins, she’ll join the ranks of fellow Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize, who became the first from the country to reach the finals in 2019.
For Coker, this recognition extends beyond personal achievement; it’s about redefining luxury through a lens of history and lived experience. Her collection isn’t just mere fashion; it’s a statement on the power of clothing as a vessel for memory, spirituality, and self-expression.
For Coker, this recognition extends beyond personal achievement; it’s about redefining luxury through a lens of history and lived experience. Her collection isn’t just mere fashion; it’s a statement on the power of clothing as a vessel for memory, spirituality, and self-expression.
A show rooted in history
From the moment Tolu Coker’s Ori-Upon Reflection debuted at London Fashion Week AW25, it was clear this wasn’t just a runway show; elegance was on display. The space — presented in an exhibition-style format — was layered with symbolism that echoes the collection’s themes of heritage. Labour and resilience. Models stood holding cotton stalks—a symbolic reference to the historical ties between Black labour and the global fashion industry—while Nina Simone’s haunting rendition of “Strange Fruit” played in the background.
This deliberate confrontation with history set the tone for the collection, which reinterpreted traditional dress codes through a deeply personal and cultural lens.
In an interview ahead of the show, Coker described her vision as “going back in order to push forward.” She adds, “As diaspora communities, we carry a lot in our bodies. We are vessels of those histories in our fabrics, bronzes and crafts—it’s preserved in a unique form.”
Tolu Coker via Instagram
This idea of historical continuity was visible in how Coker’s styled her pieces. She explored sculptural blouses extending past the waist with Bermuda shorts, long skirts, and tailored trousers. Each look giving a different interpretation of the same garment, much like cultural traditions evolve across generations.
Coker didn’t forget her roots. She weaved heritage into every detail of her collection. Striped ties, reminiscent of British school uniforms combined with crisp white socks and heels. Were a tribute to the Sunday Best tradition deeply rooted in Black communities. Meanwhile, rich textiles and layered silhouettes paid homage to West African tailoring. Blending the precision of British craftsmanship with the fluidity of African dress. Through this fusion, Coker’s explored the complex identity of the diaspora, honouring the past while reimagining the future.
Tolu Coker via Instagram
Fashion as spiritual and cultural expression
White played a central role in the collection—not just as a colour but as a symbol of purity and spirituality. Coker drew inspiration from Aladura churches, which she described as “predominantly Black communities in South London, very conservative Christians. With expressions of worship that mirror ancient spiritual practices.” The blank white robes worn in these churches became a canvas for individuality, much like the designer’s own creations.
By weaving together elements of Yoruba tradition, South American ceremonial dress, and Louisiana and Haitian ritual attire, Coker posed a crucial question: How do garments serve as vessels for legacy, memory, and identity across generations? Through her collection, she offered a powerful answer: wooden rosaries were used to evoke both Catholic devotion and Yoruba spiritual beads were draped over garments. Symbolising the intersection of faith, heritage, and personal history. These details reinforced the idea that clothing is more than fabric stitched together; it often carries the weight of ancestry, belief, and cultural continuity.
Tolu Coker via Instagram
A defining moment for African heritage in fashion
Coker’s nomination for the LVMH Prize is a milestone, not just for her but for African fashion. “For me, it’s less a conversation about validation and more about equity,” she stated. “Redefining luxury by rooting it back in heritage. Often from communities that were never considered part of that space—is what my work has always been about.”
With Ori–Upon Reflection, Coker doesn’t just tell a story; she honours a lineage through her work, affirming that African heritage isn’t just relevant in luxury fashion; it is luxury fashion.
