Pieter Mulier steps into Versace’s top role, following his departure from Alaïa and amid major change at the Italian fashion house.
Pieter Mulier is officially taking the helm at Versace. The Italian fashion house confirmed his appointment as creative director yesterday. The announcement follows the Belgian designer’s departure from Alaïa on Friday, where he spent five years overseeing a period marked by both critical acclaim and commercial growth.
Mulier steps into the role previously held by Dario Vitale, who succeeded Donatella Versace. Vitale’s tenure was brief, culminating in a single runway show presented at Milan Fashion Week last September. His exit came at a moment of significant transition for the brand: just two days earlier, the Prada Group finalised its €1.25 billion acquisition of the Gianni Versace-founded house.
From Alaïa to Versace
Now under the Prada Group’s ownership, Versace is turning to Mulier to reinvigorate the label at a time when, despite its global recognition, sales have steadily declined in recent years. His appointment signals a clear intent to reconnect the brand with renewed creative momentum.
Mulier’s recent chapter at Alaïa offers insight into the direction he may bring to Versace. Appointed creative director in 2021, he became the first designer to lead the house following the death of its founder, Azzedine Alaïa, in 2017. During his tenure, Mulier articulated a vision centred on what he described as “modern beauty,” rooted in Alaïa’s historic emphasis on form and silhouette, while reframing it for contemporary life.
“The women who wear Alaïa are not static works of art, but are active in society, working, running, busy with children,” he told Wallpaper in the September 2022 Style Issue. “I want to create clothes that carry this idea of a modern beauty, always in movement.”
Mulier: a designer backed by legacy and change
Before Alaïa, Mulier built a formidable résumé as a longtime collaborator of Raf Simons. He worked alongside the designer at his eponymous label, and later at Jil Sander, Dior and Calvin Klein, where Simons served as creative director. His appointment at Alaïa marked his first major role leading a fashion house in his own right.
His final collection for the brand, the Alaïa Spring/Summer 2026 runway show, now stands as the closing chapter of that era.
In a press statement yesterday, Lorenzo Bertelli, Versace’s executive chairman, expressed confidence in the appointment. “When we considered the Versace acquisition, we identified Pieter Mulier as the right person for the brand,” he said. “We believe that he can truly unlock Versace’s full potential and that he will be able to engage in a fruitful dialogue with the brand’s strong legacy. We are excited to begin this journey together.”
As Mulier prepares to take the reins, his move from Alaïa to Versace marks one of the most closely watched creative transitions in fashion right now — one unfolding at the intersection of heritage, ownership change, and the promise of renewal.
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