The London Fashion Week AW25 runway made one thing clear: maximalism, bold designs, and avant-garde silhouettes are back at the forefront of fashion.
The London Fashion Week AW25 runway made one thing clear: maximalism, bold designs, and avant-garde silhouettes are back at the forefront of fashion.
“Be chaotic, uncomfortable…” With these words, Harris Reed set the tone for London Fashion Week’s Autumn/Winter 2025 showcase opening with a mesmerizing performance with Florence Pugh, who delivered a powerful monologue inspired by William Shakespeare’s “All the World’s a Stage”.
London Fashion Week soared into full swing on Thursday, 20th February, arriving just weeks after the whirlwind of New York Fashion Week. Once again, it reaffirmed its core ethos — unbridled creativity, bold innovation, and a platform for rising talents redefining the boundaries of design.
With a dynamic interplay of emerging voices and established powerhouses, the AW25 collections unfolded as a kaleidoscope of trends, each offering a distinct vision for the future of fashion.
Here are the defining moments of the season:
Bold colours, sustainably focused
This season, London Fashion Week designers proved that vibrancy and sustainability can go hand in hand. Striking hues dominated the runway, from electrifying neons to rich jewel tones, all woven into collections that championed ethical sourcing, upcycled materials, and conscious craftsmanship. Fashion’s future is bright — both in colour and intent.
L-R: Henry Nicholls via Getty Images; @fashionweek via Instagram; @fashionweek via Instagram
The bold colours of London Fashion Week extended beyond garments, making its mark on bags, scarves, and accessories with unwavering commitment.
Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute, described the season’s hues as “reconciling who we are and wish to become… balancing the craving for change with the consumer’s desire for sustainability.”
From serene lavender blue and high-impact reds to verdant, eco-conscious greens, the spectrum reflected both sophistication and a deeper responsibility to the planet.
Tassels and Fringes: the movement of the moment
Tassels and fringes took centre stage at LFW AW25, infusing the runway with dynamic movement and tactile allure. For brands like Burberry, Toga, Simone Rocha, and Temperley, these intricate details weren’t just accents—they were statement embellishments, bringing drama and fluidity to their collections.
L-R: @kendam_com via X (Twitter); Dave Barrett via Getty Images; @temperleylondon via Instagram
For Burberry, Daniel Lee reinterpreted the house’s heritage with equestrian-inspired tassels and fringes, seamlessly blending tradition with modernity.
Naomi Campbell’s dramatic fringe-adorned trench coat was a standout, exuding power and presence, while oversized fringe scarves introduced a sense of fluidity and motion. “Burberry is a brand made for being on the go, being in motion and movement,” Lee remarked, reinforcing the collection’s dynamic spirit.
Simone Rocha, renowned for her blend of romance and rebellion, incorporated oversized tassels to add a sense of sculptural fluidity to her designs, elevating movement and texture with her signature poetic edge.
Meanwhile, Temperley reinforced its dedication to timeless glamour, adorning ethereal dresses with delicate fringe detailing that added graceful movement and a touch of vintage allure.
Simone Rocha via Instagram
Maximalism: The return of opulence
If New York Fashion Week embraced quiet luxury, London countered with full-throttle maximalism. Harris Reed set the tone with a theatrical showcase of dramatic collars, structured corsetry, and exaggerated lapels — all wrapped in a moody, all-black grunge aesthetic.
Designers like Simone Rocha, Roksanda, and Richard Quinn followed suit, embracing bold patterns, decadent furs, oversized coats, and daring embellishments. Meanwhile, JW Anderson introduced an unexpected twist, showcasing voluminous knits that felt both innovative and boundary-pushing.
Minimalism has had its moment — AW2025 heralded the triumphant return of unapologetic self-expression.
L-R: Roksanda via Instagram; Florence Pugh via @gettyentertainment on Instagram; @fashionweek via Instagram
Lace and Sensuality
Sculptural silhouettes and intricate lacework defined a season steeped in sensuality. Leading designers — including Di Pesta, Ralph Lauren, Harris Reed, Nensi Dojaka, and Temperley — reimagined lace beyond its traditional lingerie associations, transforming it into a powerful medium for storytelling, movement, and modern elegance.
This season, lace broke free from the boudoir. It redefined itself as a bold statement in outerwear proving its versatility beyond traditional confines.
L-R: Ayra Starr by Jason Lloyd-Evans via Jtdapperfashionweek.com; @temperleylondon via Instagram
Voluminous skirts: The bigger, the better
Voluminous skirts emerged as one of the season’s most dominant trends, commanding attention with their dramatic silhouettes. Leading the charge, S.S. Daley showcased extravagant floral skirts—balloon-like in shape and maximal in impact.
In AW25, streamlined silhouettes retreat as designers fully embrace unapologetic volume and grandeur. Minimalistic skirts make way for bold architectural designs that redefine movement and shape.
SS Daley via Instagram
Faux fur jackets: a controversial comeback
Faux fur staged a bold return this season, redefining luxury with a modern, rebellious edge. Striking faux fur pieces dominated the runway, seamlessly blending opulence with innovation.
Under Daniel Lee’s creative direction, Burberry infused its signature British outerwear with fringed faux furs. Thus, proving that heritage and modernity can coexist effortlessly. Meanwhile, Toga Archives pushed the boundaries of design with fur-adorned shoes. An unexpected yet elegant fusion of creativity and statement-making style.
L-R: Simone Rocha via Instagram; Toga Archives via Instagram; Simone Rocha via Instagram
With sustainability at the forefront, designers are redefining fur through ethical alternatives. Consequently proving that responsibility and opulence can go hand in hand.
London Fashion Week AW25 was a masterclass in boundary-pushing design. While the opening show set the stage for daring, rule-breaking aesthetics, the sheer artistry on display still surpassed expectations. This season’s designers delivered a compelling fusion of innovation, nostalgia, and unapologetic boldness — ushering in a new era of fearless fashion.
