October wrapped up the fabulous international Fashion Week season, and for me, Moscow Fashion Week was an experience that will visibly set the tone for the seasons to come. The runway culminated all the best trends we had seen this SS25 season at various other runway shows. Many international and local brands showcased a blend of creativity, wild imagination and practicality.
Moscow Fashion Week featured designers from South Africa, Brazil, UAE and China, who made some of my best runways at the show. It was a joy to witness dance performances on the runway as well as performance catwalks, each runway telling a story beyond the seasons and trends. Join me on this journey into Moscow’s fashion scene with these standout runways.
Ianis Chamalidy (Russia)
One of my favourite runways at Moscow Fashion Week, Ianis displayed a haunting runway that felt like watching a thriller movie unfold before your eyes. This runway closed the first day of Moscow Fashion Week and left me static, trying to wrap my head around what I witnessed. The task was a performance runway and they passed with flying colours, the models not only wearing the clothes but telling a story. The runway started with a male model wearing a simple white shorts to an imposing villain-like queen holding an orb. Even more fascinating was the fast pace of this runway and the constant rotation of the models who never seemed to leave the runway. It was a never-ending cycle with new models introduced at intervals making the story on display richer.
At this runway, we saw some models staggering, while others walked in a puppet-like manner. And there were two models dressed and walking similarly as if one was a shadow of another, all of this in a dark room that hid the iridescent colours of many of the pieces till the last minute. Overall, the storytelling, clever display and contemporary pieces made this my favourite runway. The collection was also homogenous and practical allowing me to see myself in the pieces displayed.
Maison Revolta (Brazil)
I had a short conversation with the designer at Maison Revolta, the Brazilian brand from Sao Paolo. The designer spoke about his love for leather as a natural fabric and its many design possibilities. It reminded me of the design duo, Whitakermalem who create leather pieces, you may know them as the designers of Marvel’s Captain America’s suit. Like Whitakermalem, Maison Revolta has mastered the art of making structured fabric like leather appaear fluid. The pieces were created in flattering feminine cuts like a mermaid tail silver leather dress, embracing the movement of feminine curves. The brand also combined leather and denim, juxtaposing two structural fabrics to achieve even more fluidity.
Tshegofatso by Design (South Africa)
The South African designer, Tshegofatso by Design was the only African designer who displayed at the Moscow Fashion Week, and he held his own with uniquely crafted leather pieces made into puffy strictures. Components of his pieces were detachable as was displayed on the runway making for versatile but fun pieces. Beyond the eccentric nature of this collection, its functionality speaks for itself and will serve very well for chilly spring days
Measure (Russia)
The modest fashion house, Measure from the Russian Muslim region of Dagestan brought an interesting approach to athleisure. As a sporty girl who is a proud preacher of layering and asymmetrical silhouettes, this collection felt very personal. The light fabric makes for a functional and stylish approach to sports. My favourite part of this collection has been the boxing shoes and the mini punching bag accessories. Who knew you could style boxing shoes so elegantly?
KenSun (China)
The Chinese brand KenSun was a perfect blend of traditional elements like the mandarin collars and the cheongsam (the popular traditional Chinese dress) with modern elements creating a familiar but fresh result. The designer made use of shepherd check and floral patterns alongside lace and metallic, iridescent fabric to reflect the subtlety expected with feminine charm. This elegant runway defined demure in a way that is trendy yet timeless.
Rogov (Russia)
This runway, although not originally on the lineup of runways, was a pleasant surprise for me. The room was transformed with Rogov’s pink spandex backdrop whose draping covered the flash mob that started the show in a flurry of cosy fits, coats and a pop of pastels. Beyond the surprise and the flash mob, this runway was a delight for me with its seamless transition from casual wear to more corporate but equally stylish pieces. The colour combinations were just as exciting as the individual pieces, a win win if you love being adventurous with your style.
Angelo Estera (Dubai)
Dubai is known for its fantastic couture industry and Angelo Estera came out to prove that all the rumours are true. This collection was a brilliant take on femininity and grace. Using gold, olive, peach, mint green and black, Angelo showcased all the possibilities in a wide range of styles and cuts. The designer also played with lace and sheer to introduce a subtle sensuality to the lineup.
Yana Besfamilnaya (Russia)
This audacious runway from local favourite, Yana Besfamilnaya left me intrigued. The designer incorporated balaclavas and covered kitten heel shoes through the lineup leaving his audience tethering on the balance of contemporary and classy. As each element is often used to represent these different aesthetics, it was a balance that was held together by the fur coats and asymmetric coats alongside check patterns tying the lineup together nicely.
Shatu 1997 (Russia)
It’s only right that I end this lineup with the designer whose letter to all her guests got me interested in Russian prose. Not only did it ignite a fresh appreciation for fashion design and the creative process, she also left each of us with the gift of a necklace, a touch of the passion that goes into her pieces.
But beyond a personal investment, Shatu’s runway featured a simplicity that can only be found in what is now universally agreed upon as girlhood. Jelly sandals? Check! Flowing silhouettes? Check! Let’s see, frilly and lace trimmings? Check! The runway’s classic elegance made for a calm closing to the shows of the night and was my final runway show before I left Moscow. Suffice to say, I found this experience so inspiring.
If you enjoyed this roundup, then you will enjoy the many other runways Marie Claire Nigeria has covered this fashion season. Fashion is not only art, it is a tool for communicating emotions, upholding values and celebrating femininity in all its essence.
