Imagine walking through the bustling markets of Kano, enveloped in the rich scent of freshly tanned leather and surrounded by various artisan-crafted leather goods such as intricately designed handbags, durable footwear, and stylish belts. This scene captures a glimpse of Nigeria’s thriving leather market, brimming with potential and historical richness.
Nigeria’s leather ranks amongst the highest quality leather found globally, with the highest patronage in Italy, Spain, India, South Asia, and China. Sourced from free-roaming animals like cattle, sheep, and goats, manufacturers transform the hides and skins into durable, high-quality leather goods. The international demand for our leather is evident in our annual exports, which bring in $600 to $800 million annually from leather exports. The future is even brighter, with the Nigerian leather industry projected to generate over $ 1 billion by 2025.
Venturing into this fascinating realm of leatherwork, we reveal the cultural significance to Nigerian communities, its bustling market and the craftsmanship of this age-old practice. We explore this captivating world where raw materials are transformed into exquisite creations that are a tribute to human creativity and artistry.
Cultural nuances of leatherworks in Nigeria
Leatherwork in Nigeria is not just about craftsmanship and trade. It is deeply intertwined with our cultural identity. The craft symbolises tradition and heritage and has been passed down through generations, preserving cultural heritage and techniques.
Across the country, leatherwork is integral to traditional dress and adornment as clothing is more than a fashion statement. It is a significant and well-known form of cultural expression.
Igbo culture
In Eastern Nigeria, leather is used to make Igbo Akupe, a traditional leather hand fan popular in Igbo culture. It is used to complete the traditional outfit for men. However, it is not just an everyday accessory, as Chiefs use it to depict royalty. It is also used during special ceremonies like marriage rites.
Yoruba culture
In the Yoruba culture, leatherwork remains integral to the rituals and servitude of traditional gods, like Shango, the deity associated with thunder. One of the ritual objects used in worshipping the god of thunder is a goat-leather bag known as a “laba.” It was used as a shoulder bag to hold the Shango priest’s staff (ose) and the calabash or gourd (sere), containing dried seeds that the priest would shake to call the Shango deity to prayer. Passed down from one generation to another through artisans, often belonging to clubs and unions, this remarkable craftsmanship exists today.
Hausa-Fulani culture
The Hausa-Fulani people stand out for their expertise in leatherwork, especially in making bags, shoes, and hats. They use locally sourced leather from livestock and dye it with natural colours from plants, minerals, and insects, which requires skill and patience. They further enrich their leather products with intricate patterns and motifs, such as geometric shapes, animals, and symbols, showcasing their dedication to their craft.
This commitment to leatherwork is not just a craft but a means of preserving cultural heritage. It upholds a time-honoured tradition and safeguards the unique identity of Nigerians. Leather remains a steadfast source of income through generations symbolising a profound link to the environment in numerous communities.
The bustling leather market in Nigeria
As one of Africa’s highest producers of leather and leather products, the Nigerian leather industry is robust and has excellent growth potential. According to the Nigerian Economic Summit Group (NESG), the Nigerian leather industry employs over 750,000 workers, with over 500,000 in the finished leather goods sector, and exports over $500 million worth of leather products every year, including 80 million pairs of shoes.
However, identifying quality leather materials is crucial to succeeding in the competitive leather market. There are many ways you can tell if a leather material is quality, but here are the three best tips:
Texture and feel
Genuine leather has a soft, supple, and smooth texture, while low-quality leather has a rigid, rough, or plastic-like texture. You can test the quality of leather materials by pressing it with your fingers. High-quality leather may have small wrinkles on its surface because of the pressure, but they disappear within a few seconds.
Smell
Another way to know the quality of good leather is by examining its smell. A high-quality leather material has a distinct, pleasant, and earthy aroma. This differs from synthetic leather materials, as they always have a strong chemical or plastic smell.
However, it’s important to note that some substances can be applied to synthetic leather to mimic the natural, distinct smell of quality leather. But this smell fades after a few days, leaving behind the telltale chemical plastic odour. Therefore, it’s crucial to exercise caution when using smell as a quality indicator. To be on the safe side, combine the three techniques in this article to ensure you’re choosing genuine leather.
Flexibility
Flexibility, a key indicator of quality, is one of the most common ways to check the quality of a leather material. If you’ve been to a Nigerian market to buy a shoe, belt, or any other leather material, chances are you must have seen one vendor squeeze the product while convincing you of its quality. This simple test can give you a wealth of information about the quality of the leather.
Genuine leather material is flexible and has a certain level of elasticity. It quickly returns to its normal position when you bend or squeeze it, without showing any cracks or signs of damage.
Location
While there isn’t an official ranking, several locations stand out for their leatherworking traditions in Nigeria. Aba is famed for its shoemaking industry. It is a significant hub for both handmade and factory-produced leather footwear.
Sokoto is renowned for “Kalabawa” leather, a soft and lightweight variety in clothing and bags. Akwa Ibom is home to skilled artisans crafting sandals, belts, and other leather items.
But Kano is the heart of Nigeria’s leather industry, which has a rich history and an expanding market for leather goods.
Kano, the premium leather market in Nigeria
Kano, a renowned business hub in Nigeria, boasts a flourishing leather industry. The tannery factories, the country’s oldest and largest local leather suppliers, are the core of an industry valued at a minimum of ₦25 billion. Alongside leather cobblers and outlets nationwide, these spaces employ hundreds of thousands of people, further solidifying Kano’s status as a stable and growing business hub.
The tannery factories in Kano are bustling with activity as artisans skillfully process hides to create leather that holds significant allure for neighbouring African nations and even Europe. It’s widely known that some of the globe’s leading fashion labels procure their leather from Kano’s tanneries. In 2016, the prestigious Louis Vuitton revealed that it sourced leather from parts of Northern Nigeria. This highlights the potential of the country’s leather industry and instils a sense of pride and confidence in the industry’s future.
Kano tanneries, the starting point in the leather production value chain, are similar to other leather processing centres. The tanneries receive hides and skins stripped from slain animals and meticulously take them through the tanning process until they become leather. Besides the conventional cow and goatskin, they also specialise in a range of non-native skins like snake and crocodile.
What happens if the leather is not exported to a foreign market?
If the leather remains in Nigeria, it goes on to local small-or large-scale industrial producers or artisans who turn it into finished products. The more prominent players in the leather manufacturing industries rely on automated production, with only a small amount of manual labour required to produce their belts, bags, and shoes in large quantities.
Aba is one of Nigeria’s regions with a strong leather fashioning sector, depicted by several leatherworking and trading clusters. These areas are found in various parts of the city, each playing host to many producers operating in them. Footwear is the most significant item in these areas; ladies’ bags, upholstery, purses, and belts are also made.
Market opportunities and challenges to address in the sector
There is a growing demand for quality and substantial leather globally. The global leather market encompasses various products, from fashion goods to industrial applications. Factors such as consumer demand, trends in the fashion industry, and sustainability concerns influence the market. As the world becomes more environmentally conscious, there is a growing emphasis on sustainable practices within the leather industry, such as using eco-friendly tanning methods and promoting ethical sourcing of materials.
With consumers worldwide tilting towards sustainably produced leather goods, Nigeria has the potential to lead in sustainable leather production, catering to this expanding market. The country’s substantial cattle herds offer a prime source of top-tier hides and skins, positioning Nigeria as a key player in the global leather industry.
It is indeed a market that is drastically growing and has a lot of promise for the economy. If the government could provide the local producers with the much-needed machines and constant power supply, it would significantly reduce production costs and increase productivity. With all this in place, the leather industry can become a very lucrative business for Nigeria, offering hope for economic growth and prosperity.
Leatherwork is a testament to human creativity and craftsmanship, intertwining functionality with artistic expression. Its historical significance and enduring appeal in various industries highlight its timeless value, evoking a sense of appreciation for this cherished art form that evolves with the times.
