Did you hear about Chanel’s latest couture show at Paris Haute Couture Week? There has been a palpable sense of anticipation and speculation about Chanel’s future direction since Virginie Viard left early this year. She had maintained the iconic brand’s legacy while infusing it with fresh, contemporary elements before her unexpected departure.
This heightened anticipation set the stage for Chanel’s Fall-Winter 2024/25 couture collection, unveiled at the historic Palais Garnier opera house. Despite the leadership transition, Chanel’s team of skilled artisans from the Métiers d’Art ateliers—embroiderers, feather workers, and milliners—showcased their exceptional craftsmanship, ensuring the show proceeded seamlessly and embodying the house’s unwavering dedication to excellence.
The opulent grand halls of the Palais Garnier, with their ornate architecture and historic charm, provided a mesmerising backdrop, perfectly complementing the drama and elegance of Chanel’s couture collection. The gilded ceilings, intricate mouldings, and majestic chandeliers of the opera house echoed the collection’s luxurious fabrics and elaborate designs, creating an atmosphere where fashion and performance art converged seamlessly.
As models glided down the runway, the setting underscored the collection’s theme, bridging haute couture and opera. The interplay of light on the polished marble floors and the rich velvet drapes heightened the sense of theatricality, enhancing the overall experience. Chanel’s use of feathers, tassels, and embroidered flowers mirrored the opulence of the venue, while the dramatic silhouettes and sumptuous textures echoed the grandeur of the Palais Garnier.
The runway at Palais Garnier was transformed into a tableau where fashion and art intertwined, showcasing the enduring power of classic design and Chanel’s remarkable ability to evolve and inspire.
Supermodel Vittoria Ceretti opened the show, setting the stage with an embroidered top and panties beneath a voluminous black cloak with a ruffled high collar. This striking ensemble introduced the collection’s Victorian-inspired theme, rich with theatrical elements. A parade of luxurious materials followed: feathers, tassels, embroidered flowers, lacquered jersey, supple tweeds, silky velvet, illusion tulle, taffeta, and duchesse satin. These textures, combined with a palette of black, gold, silver, ivory, fuchsia, pale pink, and celadon, evoked images of a candlelit ballroom filled with grandeur.
A particular highlight was a mid-length skirt made of illusion tulle adorned with embroidered flowers and a 3D bow, paired with a white high-neck shirt featuring floral designs on the collar and cuffs, reminiscent of a dreamy Regency ball. Another standout piece was a white jumpsuit crafted from the softest cotton, its top embellished with hand-stitched teardrop crystals. This elegant jumpsuit was paired with a mid-length black blazer made of shiny tweed, perfectly complementing the jumpsuit, while a black bow tie attached to the hair added a softer, girly feel.
A striking black feather tuxedo coat, meticulously crafted with tassels and feathers, draped over a blush shirt dress made from lustrous satin material. The dress featured black buttons running up from the collar to the knee, providing a modern reinterpretation of the classic dress and coat ensemble. The addition of the coat added to the collection a theatrical element
Chanel’s latest collection pays homage to mid-20th-century fashion icons with knee and floor-length jackets and coats, often paired with knee-length skirts and jumpsuits, reimagined with modern cuts and designs. Like this purple tweed skirt and jacket set where the gold hand-stitched embroidered flowers added a contemporary twist.
Structured tweeds, voluminous silhouettes, and hand-stitched embroidered fabrics were central elements of the collection, contrasting beautifully with softer materials like silky velvet and illusion tulle. These combinations created silhouettes that seamlessly blend the familiar with the contemporary. Detailed embroidery, unique fabric treatments, and careful attention to detail highlighted the exceptional craftsmanship for which Chanel is renowned.
The show culminated with Australian model Angelina Kendall gracing the runway as the quintessential Chanel bride, her billowing white gown with puffed sleeves and a flower-embroidered bodice exuding an air of 1980s romance and timeless elegance. The gown’s voluminous silhouette and intricate details captivated the audience, evoking gasps of admiration and a sense of nostalgia. The grandeur of the Palais Garnier, combined with the emotional resonance of the finale, created an unforgettable moment that celebrated both the enduring legacy of Chanel and the innovative spirit that propels it forward. The audience was left in awe, their applause echoing through the opulent halls, marking a triumphant end to a spectacular show.
Following Sophia Richie’s stunning Chanel wedding, I predict the number of Chanel brides is about to skyrocket in the coming years, as more brides seek to embody the same timeless elegance and sophistication.
The collection not only showcases Chanel’s timeless beauty but also underscores its lasting influence in fashion. Despite changes in leadership, Chanel remains committed to excellence in craftsmanship and creativity. This collection honours the brand’s rich history while also setting the stage for a future that blends tradition with innovation seamlessly.
