African cities are a vibrant fashion scene where traditions continue to inspire modern designers across the continent and beyond. This rich heritage is propelling African fashion onto the global stage, but the story goes deeper. A new generation in Africa, constituting over 60% of the population, is embracing its roots with fervour. This youthful energy, coupled with a projected 42% increase in clothing demand within the next decade, is driving a surge in popularity for locally-made garments, especially in the capitals.
The fuel for this fire? Africa’s abundance of raw materials. With 37 out of 54 countries producing cotton, the continent has the resources to satisfy this demand and thrive. Africa’s apparel market is already valued at over $70 billion, and it’s projected to grow by 5% annually. This isn’t just a trend; it’s a full-fledged economic force. The continent’s fashion scene isn’t just hot; it’s well-connected. With roughly 32 fashion weeks held annually across Africa, major cities are emerging as creative hubs, leading the way in this exciting transformation.
Here are the five fashion capitals at the forefront of the thriving movement:
Lagos, Nigeria
The city is a powerhouse when it comes to African fashion. With three major fashion weeks setting the stage each year – Lagos Fashion Week, Arise Fashion Week, and GTCO Fashion Weekend – the city attracts the industry’s biggest names, from renowned designers and celebrated models to influential fashion executives. This fierce competition breeds innovation, fostering a thriving fashion scene that excels across various categories. From ready-to-wear collections to breathtaking haute couture and accessible luxury pieces, Lagos has something for every taste.
Creatives like Stephen Tayo, Deji Oluokun, Michael Oshai, and Lakin Ogunbanwo are some of the big names in Lagos fashion photography. Their vibrant images pulsate with life, showcasing the energy and depth of Lagos’ style scene. These photographers don’t just document fashion; they paint it in a light that is both captivating and true to its essence.
Ready to set your sights on the future of fashion? Here are some designers you should have your eye on:
- Deola Sagoe: A leading Nigerian fashion designer whose modern interpretation of traditional clothing styles like the Aso Oke makes her a sought-after name. Every bride wants to wear Deola Sagoe, and we understand why.
- Mai Atafo: This designer is popularly known for his bespoke suits and bridal wear. The wedding industry is one of the leading drivers of fashion not only in the city of Lagos, but in Nigeria as a whole. Brands like Mai Atafo are redefining luxury tailored male clothing.
- Adebayo Oke Lawal: His brand Orange Culture leads unique fashion trends creating some of the most innovative luxury fashion pieces for everyday wear. When you see bright colours, outstanding texture and design structure, then you know that you’re looking at Orange Culture.
- Abasiekeme Eki Ukanireh: Her brand, Eki Kere, blends tradition with sustainability. Eki Kere prints and raffia trims are inspired by their indigenous roots and have been seen on a number of celebrities across Africa.
Nairobi, Kenya
The Kenyans stand tall in their pursuit of excellence. Their fashion industry boasts a unique blend of international sophistication and local creativity. High-end stores cater to those seeking established brands, both foreign and Kenyan-made. For a more vibrant experience, open-air markets offer a treasure trove of thrifted clothing, jewellery, shoes, and bags – a haven for budget-conscious fashionistas and tourists alike.
Beyond the shopping scene, Kenyan fashion photography thrives thanks to photographers like Emmanuel Jambo and Thandiwe Muriu, who capture the essence of Nairobi’s style with stunning, colourful imagery. Their work goes beyond mere documentation; it paints a vivid portrait of a dynamic and evolving fashion landscape. Since 2013, the city has laid host to Nairobi fashion week, the biggest fashion week in Kenya inviting a plethora of designers.
Some designers ruling the space are:
- Ann McCreath: She’s the founder of the fashion brand KikoRomeo, known for their hand-painted Batik designs. KikoRomeo’s jumpsuits are a perfect blend of modern, functional and traditional.
- Pat Lulu Mbela: Creates wearable jewellery inspired by Xhosa beadwork with her brand Poisa Africa. Pat has clothed a number of African celebrities and is celebrated for her innovative and sustainable fashion designs.
- Adele Dejak: A designer known for her handmade statement jewellery, Adele Dejak’s tight knit team creates wearable art with every piece looking like it is straight out of a museum.
Accra, Ghana
The Accra scene is teeming with artistic experiences and spaces that encourage urban fashion. Between the clubs, colourful street carnivals and being a hotspot for I-Just-Got-Backs (IJGBs) to visiting citizens, the city is prime for trends and youthful exuberance. The city hosts Accra fashion week and has even played host to Mercedes Benz fashion week in 2021. You will love Bob Pixel, Francis Kokoroko and Nii Odzenma’s photography of Ghana’s fashion scene.
Some designers to look out for are:
- Christie Brown: This luxury fashion brand has incorporated traditional African fabrics and sewing techniques with modern silhouettes. The choice of fabrics combined with intricate embroidery is another reason why this brand is widely sought after.
- Duaba Serwa: This designer is known for intricate details and bold colours that shimmer. Her origami textured pieces are a unique blend of different cultures and can be seen on a number of celebrities home and abroad.
- Oheneba Yaw Boamah: Meet the founder of the brand Abrantie, known for its African take on modern attire like the art shirt by Abrantie that infuses kente prints among other artworks inspired by Ghanaian tradition.
Dakar, Senegal
Dakar Fashion Week is one of the top fashion events on the continent, inviting style professionals from the industry and across the globe. The city’s prestige as a fashion hub rose to new heights when Chanel selected this city for the prestigious launch of their famous Metiers d’Art collection, simultaneously making history as the first European luxury brand to host a fashion show in Sub-Saharan Africa. In Dakar, the streets are filled with stylish people, including many sporting colourful boubous. Boubou, a Wolof term, is the popular name for voluminous dresses worn across Africa with origins in West Africa.
Some designers to keep an eye are:
- Selly Raby Kane: A Senegalese designer who blends bold colours with an avant-garde approach, creating artistic fashion statements. Her fashion style is trendy and unique, creating pieces that are sure to rule pop-culture.
- Adama Amanda Ndiaye: Is an organiser of the Dakar Fashion Week. Her clothing is a vibrant celebration of contemporary African style. The textures, patterns and colours used make styling easy but is sure to make a statement for whoever is wearing it.
- Sophie Zinga: Is a luxury fashion designer who empowers women through her elegant and sophisticated clothing. Typical to the senegalese boubou style, her dresses are long and flowy using subtle patterns and colours to represent ease and femininity.
Cape Town, South Africa
The Fashion Week in Capetown is a bustling fashion week held yearly to celebrate luxury fashion and street style. On the streets, pop culture and trends lead fashion choices, with young people more attuned to Western styles but incorporating their personality and culture into every fun outfit. Photographer Koto Bolofo captures the city’s fashion with major fashion magazines at home and abroad. Kgomotso Neto is known for his striking images and for capturing the essence of African beauty.
Some designers we are excited about are:
- Gavin Rajah: This fashion designer and entrepreneur renowned for his couture designs and event planning. Away from luxury fashion events, his pieces are worn by the creme de la creme of the society, high fashion pieces that tell a story of sophistication.
- Rich Mnisi: Is a contemporary designer known for his bold and innovative designs. His designs are gender neutral, and his patterns pull inspiration from African cultures.
- David Tlale: His mesh-infused designs are both edgy and delicate, an innovative balance to strike with any fashion piece. Some collections pull leather and mesh together while others infuse mesh with silk, catering to varying palettes.
From the ready-to-wear collections and breathtaking haute couture in Lagos to the bold looks on the streets of Cape Town, our exploration of African fashion has been a whirlwind adventure. The future of fashion is bright, and Africa is at the forefront.
