Lagos Fashion Week kicks off with Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked, celebrating heritage through bold silhouettes and shimmering detail

Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked via Onalaja

At the Mike Adenuga Centre, a space celebrated for arts and performances, Onalaja opened Lagos Fashion Week with a show that shimmered in every sense — a dazzling display of shine, glitter, and intricate beadwork.

Onalaja opened the first day of Lagos Fashion Week with unmistakable grandeur at the Mike Adenuga Centre. Wool, beads, and fringes took centre stage in a presentation that felt less like a runway and more like theatre. Beneath the warm glow of stage lights, models blurred the line between fashion and performance, breaking the fourth wall in moments that felt both intimate and electric.

Suffused with red and intricate beadwork, the collection marked a milestone for the womenswear brand. Founded by Kanyinsola Onalaja in 2015, the brand celebrated its 10th anniversary with Marked — a collection that feels both retrospective and refreshingly new.

The story behind Marked

Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked via Onalaja
Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked via Onalaja

Marked, the collection, takes its name from Kanyinsola Onalaja’s journey through Lagos and fashion design. “I have lived in different cities — born in Nigeria, schooled in London and Rome. However, my brand reflects more than that; it also ‘marks’ my heritage as a Yoruba and Edo woman,” she said. Now in its 10th year, the eponymous label stands as both a personal milestone and a testament to Onalaja’s evolving craftsmanship. 

Inside the Onalaja show

lazyloadLagos is home to one of the most vibrant nightlife scenes in Nigeria, so a stream of cars headed in the same direction is hardly unusual. However, on Wednesday evening, the destination was clear: the Mike Adenuga Centre, where guests arrived in style for Onalaja’s SS26 show, Marked.

Inside the venue, guests were ushered into the amphitheatre and treated to cocktails courtesy of Chivas Regal. When the lights dimmed, models — each with sleek cornrows —took the runway. The show opened with one of the evening’s standout looks: a green-and-black skater dress with an exposed back and midriff. But the real showstopper was its lower half —voluminous layers of green and black feathers that moved like liquid under the spotlight.

A softer look followed: a low V-neck blue dress with feather-trimmed armholes. Simpler, yet equally intentional, it hinted at what was to come—metallic fabrics, plunging necklines, and daring cutouts that defined the rest of the collection.

Read more: How to add metallics to your wardrobe

The next look carried the shimmering theme forward — a model in a green miniskirt and sheer shirt, echoing the fluid, sensual rhythm that threaded through the night’s remaining looks.  

Beadwork in motion 

Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked via Onalaja
Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked via Onalaja

Being of Edo heritage myself, I like to think I’ve seen it all when it comes to beadwork, but Onalaja took it to unexpected, captivating heights — from beads used as appliqués to those sculpted into form-fitting silhouettes. One standout look: a red, pink, and yellow dress with a beaded V-shaped lower half that mimicked the structure of a bodysuit, bold yet intricate in its detailing.

Another showstopper — a sleeveless orange dress — made a compelling case for orange as the new black. If this is any indication, the “little orange dress” might just be fashion’s next obsession.

Onalaja also used beadwork to play tricks on the eye. One look in particular — a red two-piece — demanded a second glance. At first, it appeared to be a metallic-fringed set, but closer inspection revealed the skirt was adorned with cascading beads that mirrored the top’s movement and shimmer.

Perhaps the most imaginative use of beadwork came in the translucent dresses, where delicate, glasslike beads lent texture and light to otherwise sheer silhouettes — proof that even in daring design, Onalaja’s craftsmanship remains precise and poetic.

The swimwear, reimagined

Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked via Onalaja
Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked via Onalaja

Dresses, skirts, and tops weren’t the only silhouettes Onalaja explored this season. Between the peekaboo beadwork and daring necklines, the introduction of swimwear felt like a natural progression for the brand.

Though the collection featured printed bikinis, Onalaja pushed further, experimenting with beaded and fringed underwear — underwear being the operative word, as these pieces seemed designed more for spectacle than for swimming. Still, the low-slung fringe and playful detailing echoed the growing influence of rave culture in Nigeria, where fashion often blurs the line between statement and self-expression.

Accessories that speak elegance 

Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked via Onalaja
Onalaja SS26 collection, Marked via Onalaja

In true celebratory fashion, the accessories brought each look to life. Oversized, gleaming earrings framed the models’ faces, cascading to the sides of their necks with sculptural elegance. One model, dressed in a striking orange one-piece, carried a large woven bag with fringes at the side — a perfect complement to the collection’s tactile energy. Others held beaded handbags, a defining trend of 2025 that Onalaja reinterpreted with artisanal flair.

The overall experience

The best part of the show came at the very end. When guests left the amphitheatre, and mingled at the bar.  There, the models blurred the boundaries between runway and real life — sitting beside guests, dancing, striking playful poses and exaggerated expressions. It felt like an unchoreographed performance, spontaneous yet intentional, offering a glimpse of how effortlessly the looks could transition into the night. From show-stopping ensembles that unleashed one’s inner showgirl to elegant dinner pieces, poolside statements, and sultry date-night looks, Marked proved its versatility.

As an opener for Lagos Fashion Week, the Onalaja show set the tone with precision and flair. It delivered everything timeless about fashion — the joy, the performance, the spectacle — while embracing what modern fashion demands: body inclusivity, self-expression, and an unapologetic acceptance of natural hair. 

Read more: Six African designers redefining fashion with whimsy, courage, and creativity — and making us eager for their next piece

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