Milano Unica’s 41st edition strengthens its global standing despite economic headwinds, showcasing growth in exhibitors and European participation while emphasising sustainability and innovation in high-end textiles.
Milano Unica’s 41st edition, which commenced on today, July 8, 2025, at Fiera Milano Rho, reaffirms its position as a premier trade show for high-end fabrics and accessories. This year’s event boasts a total of 735 exhibitors, a significant increase that includes 584 companies (+2.6%) across Ideabiella, Moda In, and Shirt Avenue. Notably, European participation has seen a substantial 8.7% growth, underscoring the event’s expanding international appeal, despite ongoing global geopolitical uncertainties. The exhibition space itself has also expanded by 3.3%.
A glimmer of hope for Made-in-Italy textiles
According to the Economic Studies and Statistics Office of Confindustria Moda, the Italian textile industry faced a challenging 2024, with total sales of Made-in-Italy textiles dropping by 8.8% to Euro 7 billion, and exports decreasing by 10.7% to Euro 3.8 billion. While the first quarter of 2025 continued to show some declines, particularly a 2.3% fall in exports compared to the same period in 2024, there are encouraging signs of divergence within product categories and export markets. Woven fabrics saw a 6.9% decrease, but knits surged by 11%. Among fibres, wool and knits experienced downward trends, while cotton (+1.1%), linen (+1.2%), and silk (+1.6%) showed growth.
Export destinations also presented mixed results. While exports to EU countries (45.8% of total exports) declined by 5.0%, non-EU exports saw a slight increase of 0.1%. A notable highlight is the 18.4% growth in exports to the United States, a crucial strategic market, despite potential uncertainties surrounding U.S. tariff policies. Conversely, exports to China experienced a 16.5% reduction. Imports, however, surged with double-digit growth, primarily driven by non-EU countries, with China leading the increase at 40%.
Exhibitor growth and industry responsibility
Simone Canclini, President of Milano Unica, emphasised the “value of the new European participants,” highlighting their recognition of Milano Unica as a vital platform for commercial and marketing promotion. He acknowledged that while the industry is not “out of the tunnel,” the varied trends in product segments and destination markets offer a “glimpse of light.” The increased confidence in the trade show, reflected in the exhibitor numbers, reinforces Milano Unica’s responsibility to support and promote the industry amidst global economic complexities.
Insights on luxury and the future consumer
The opening ceremony featured prominent speakers, including Claudio Sgaraglia, Prefect of Milan, and Elena Buscemi, President of the Municipal Council. A panel discussion moderated by Nicola Porro, deputy editor-in-chief of “Il Giornale,” delved into the continuity and renewal of Made-in-Italy manufacturing, with insights from Edoardo Zegna.
Claudia D’Arpizio, Senior Partner and Global Head of Fashion and Luxury at Bain & Company, provided a keynote address on the luxury sector, characterising 2025 as a “turning point.” She noted that new generations prioritise “authenticity and creativity,” shifting the focus back to experience, product quality, and recalibrated pricing. D’Arpizio stressed that future luxury must be “discreet, genuine, and aligned with personal fulfilment rather than ostentation.” She projected that by 2030, the market would expand to over 300 million new consumers, with Gen Z and Gen Alpha, as demanding and values-driven consumers, constituting half of this growth.
Innovation, sustainability, and cultural preservation at Milano Unica
Beyond its commercial role, the 41st edition of Milano Unica continues to foster innovation, research, and industry culture through a diverse array of special areas and thematic projects. The Japan and Korea Observatories mark their tenth consecutive participation, underscoring their enduring partnership.
The MU Tendenze Sostenibilità area showcases exclusively sustainable samples for the Fall/Winter 26-27 season, emphasising the industry’s increasing commitment to environmental responsibility. Other key areas include:
- The Innovation Area, curated by TexClubTec, focusing on cutting-edge solutions for activewear and sportswear, with a special emphasis on the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games.
- The Startup Textile Connection, featuring seven Italian startups presenting tech-driven, sustainability-focused solutions.
- The Design Studios area, highlighting artistic creativity in production processes.
- The MU Vintage Area, now integrated into MU Tendenze Sostenibilità, offering curated vintage pieces that promote aesthetic value and circularity.
- The MU Info&Style Area, providing insights from trend agencies, associations, and fashion forecasters.
Milano Unica also boasts a strong institutional presence from organizations promoting natural and innovative fibres including Lenzing, Woolmark, Supima, Alliance for European FlaxLinen & Hemp, Cotton Egypt, and industry expertise such as Confindustria Moda, ACIMIT, UKFT. Projects like AlpTextyles support sustainable relocalisation, while Nona Source facilitates the reuse of luxury brand deadstock. Educational initiatives include participation from ITS TAM Biella and Accademia Costume & Moda, showcasing student projects. The MU Trade Press Area features leading international trade publications.
A new project, “The Excellences of Textile Magazine,” pays tribute to the industry’s cultural heritage by exhibiting rare original editions of publications from the postwar period to the present, aiming to preserve memory and celebrate Made-in-Italy excellence. The Cube Archive’s “Archivolution” further connects past and future through memory and creativity.
Strategic partnerships and future vision
Milano Unica announced a new partnership with MarediModa, driven by a shared commitment to promoting high-quality, Made-in-Europe textiles. This collaboration will see MarediModa previewing its SS27 collections for beachwear, underwear, and athleisure at this edition.
Massimo Mosiello, Milano Unica’s General Manager, attributed the event’s growing international role to “exhibitors’ creative and product innovation and the trade show’s distinctive nature: an event created by entrepreneurs, for entrepreneurs.” He highlighted the strict selection criteria for exhibitors and outstanding reception services as key factors in Milano Unica’s status as an essential industry event.
Mosiello expressed gratitude to the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and the International Trade Agency ICE for their strategic partnership and unwavering support. He also thanked the Municipality of Milan for its crucial contribution, acknowledging Milan’s central role as a global hub for luxury, design, culture, and history.
To commemorate its 20th anniversary, Milano Unica will host a special evening event at Teatro alla Scala. Banca Sella and Lauretana were also acknowledged for their valuable support