Nigeria’s fast fashion scene is growing, with production companies catering to the country’s style-conscious consumers. From global giants to homegrown brands, the industry is experiencing rapid growth, with PayPorte, Jumia Fashion, and Konga Fashion among the key players. However, what we find interesting is the world of fast fashion at the grassroots and the brains behind the growing trend.
“Kitchen Plaza” in Tejuosho Yaba market is known as the production hub of the Yaba market in Lagos. Without prior intentions to patronise any vendor, I found myself walking into the shop of a Yaba tailor after a series of sweet-talking. He said, “Bring any design, I will make it,” so to test his abilities, I showed him a picture of a dress I liked from Instagram.
After hours of marvelling at stacks of replica dresses mimicking a design by a popular Nigerian designer, I got my replica of the design I had shown him. While the fabric wasn’t top quality like the original, one would argue that the original designer made my dress.
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Kitchen Plaza tailors—The brains behind fast fashion
Speaking with Punch, the owner of the plaza, Godswill Okorie says “The plaza houses over 1,000 people every day with 150 stalls that contain about six to eight traders per stall. We produce clothes, and sell them to boutiques in Lagos and outside Nigeria, including the United States of America.
Mr Ejima, who has been a tailor for over 15 years, was proud to say he could “make any design of ladies’ wear.”
An acclaimed expert in sewing, Ejima said that his list of clientele ranges from retailers to wholesalers, including huge brands. His ability to make up to 50 pieces of a simple dress design in 24 hours alone, without help from his workers is a testament to his years of expertise. He boasts of having over 10 customers including “big designer for bulk orders” per week. The simplest designs cost #2,000 per item, including ironing and packaging. “Business is good and we are busy,” Ejima says.
Ms. Onyii, another Kitchen Plaza tailor, describes herself as a “fashion designer,”
“I make the clothes so why shouldn’t I bear the title?”
Leasing a section of a huge sewing factory, Onyii talks about how easily she sews 60-100 pieces of clothes in one day for bulk orders. While she doesn’t sew for retail, she says her boss gets a lot of jobs from designers and she gets paid well weekly.
Another tailor, Mr Paulinus describes the Kitchen Plaza as “Nigerian China” stemming from the plaza’s proficiency and creativity. With over 10 years of sewing experience, Mr Paulinus says he sews better than Chinese tailors. “We produce more clothes than China does and it’s of better quality.”
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Although having a dress cut and sewn in less than three hours was not on the list of things I thought possible, watching the tailor move with speed, creativity and accuracy showed a deep sense of commitment to their craft.
Consumer reception to fast fashion in Nigeria
Many consumers have expressed deep appreciation for fast fashion and one of the primary drivers of this affection is affordability. Mrs Grace, a retailer says, “The clothes I buy at the plaza are neat and I make a lot of profit when I resell to my customers.” Omotoke, a student at the University of Lagos, also believes that fast fashion offers trendy clothing at budget-friendly prices. “I can’t afford to buy designers and these tailors offer me the same design for less.” With competitive pricing from local markets and online retailers, it’s hard for consumers to resist the allure of affordable fashion.
Nigerian consumers are also drawn to fast fashion because it keeps them stylish and on-trend. Fast fashion connects the average Nigerian consumer to the global fashion scene, it bridges the gap between local tastes and international trends, allowing consumers to stay up-to-date with the latest designs. Additionally, fast fashion retailers offer a wide range of styles, catering to diverse tastes and preferences.
Finally, cultural factors play a significant role in the appeal of fast fashion in Nigeria. With numerous cultural events and celebrations throughout the year, fast fashion caters to the demand for special occasion wear.
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The brand owners think differently
Nigerian designers, however, feel differently about fast fashion. They lament the impact of fast fashion on the country’s rich textile heritage and traditional fashion industry, citing copyright infringement, loss of cultural authenticity, and unsustainable production practices.
Nigerian fashion designers have expressed frustration with the expansion of fast fashion in the country, citing several concerns. One of the primary worries is copyright infringement. Nigerian designers often see their designs copied without permission or credit, undermining their intellectual property rights. This not only affects their livelihoods but also dampens innovation and creativity in the industry. Furthermore, the core of fast fashion: cheap, mass-produced alternatives, makes it challenging for designers to compete.
Fashion designers also stress the devaluation of traditional craftsmanship. Fast fashion’s focus on speed and low costs undervalues the time-honed techniques and skills that define Nigerian fashion creativity. In August, a woman shared a video of herself rocking a replica of Desiree Iyama’s design, the Nigerian designer took to the internet to create awareness on the issue. She tweeted “Inspiration sparks new ideas while copying duplicates of existing work. I appreciate genuine inspiration, but duplicating my design without permission isn’t inspiration – it’s copyright infringement. Let’s respect creators’ rights!”
There is also the argument that the focus on speed for fast fashion compromises quality and durability, damaging the reputation of Nigerian fashion as a whole. Brand dilution is another issue, as fast fashion’s pervasiveness makes it challenging for authentic, high-quality brands to stand out.
Finding a balance
On one hand, indigenous fast fashion brings numerous benefits. It provides affordable style options for many while creating jobs for thousands of Nigerians. On the other hand, the industry’s rapid expansion poses threats to local designers’ livelihoods which is a pressing concern.
To address these issues, a balanced approach is necessary. This includes adopting sustainable practices, having more collaboration between fast fashion entrepreneurs and Nigerian designers, establishing a supportive regulatory framework, and educating consumers about the value of responsible fashion. By acknowledging both the benefits and drawbacks, Nigeria’s fashion industry can strive for a future that balances style, sustainability, and sensitivity.
