Tolu Coker’s SS25 collection at the just-concluded London Fashion Week was a vibrant celebration of identity, heritage, and style. The British-Nigerian designer didn’t just put on a show; she transported us into a time capsule with her collection “Olapeju”, named after her mother. Inspired by the powerful matriarchs of immigrant communities, Coker honoured their untold stories with a bold and chic nod to the 1960s.
The ‘60s reimagined
Coker’s vision was clear from the moment you stepped into the show space transformed into a ‘60s family living room filled with framed memories. These weren’t just any pictures; they were taken by her late father, Kayode Coker, capturing the immigrant experience in North Kensington when “no blacks, no dogs, no Irish” signs littered the streets. It was a moment when fashion intersected with history, and the clothes on the runway felt like a reclamation of that era’s spirit.
Bold silhouettes and sustainable fashion
The collection itself was a dazzling blend of past and present. Silhouettes were sharp and tailored, with cinched waists—a nod to Yoruba fashion codes and her mother’s style. While maintaining a mid-century chic that wouldn’t be out of place on Jackie O. The standout? Upcycled A-line dresses with oversized collars and matching twinsets, crafted from reclaimed fabrics. Sustainability met style with prints that played off flamboyant retro wallpaper. Coker’s signature denim houndstooth jacquards were refreshed in soft pastels.
The Manolo Blahnik collaboration
But let’s talk accessories! Coker debuted a new collaboration with none other than Manolo Blahnik, pairing equestrian-inspired coats and jodhpur-style trousers with boots that screamed elegance.
Clothes as a celebration of culture and legacy
Coker closed out her runway hand in hand with her mother. Wearing pieces from the SS25 collection and looking just like I imagine she looked in the 60s. We saw her mother’s journey from Lagos to London on this runway, blended with the struggles and triumphs of immigrant communities. Each piece told a story of resilience, culture, and timeless style—proving once again that for the designer. Clothes are never just clothes. They are a celebration of the past, present, and future.
