They say diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but is it the sparkle or something deeper that truly captivates us? From Cleopatra’s serpent-adorned wrists that practically hissed, “Bow down!” to Beyoncé’s Tiffany & Co. piece that screams, “I’m the queen, and don’t you forget it,” jewellery has been more than mere adornment. Beyond the glamour, they are a potent symbol of power, status, unapologetic confidence, and sometimes, a cheeky way to say, “Yes, I know I’m fabulous.”
Today, we will uncover the fascinating history of jewellery across different cultures and eras and learn how these tiny treasures have shaped societies. Let’s embark on a glittery journey through time, where we’ll uncover the secrets behind the sparkle and see how jewellery has shaped societies throughout the ages:
Ancient Egypt: Gold of the Gods (3000 – 30 BCE)
In ancient Egypt, jewellery was a potent symbol of divine and earthly power. Pharaohs, the living gods of Egypt, adorned themselves with lavish gold and gemstones not merely for decoration but to assert their celestial connection and eternal authority. Gold was especially significant as it was believed to be the flesh of the gods, thus embodying the divine essence. Pharaohs were buried with elaborate jewellery sets, including amulets, necklaces, and rings, ensuring their grandeur in the afterlife reflected their earthly splendour. These pieces were often inscribed with symbols and inscriptions meant to invoke divine protection and favour, reinforcing the wearer’s god-like status and eternal power.
West Africa: The Kingdom of Benin (1440 – 1897)
Jewellery was a critical marker of power and status in the Kingdom of Benin. The Benin Empire’s use of coral beads and brass plaques was more than aesthetic; it was a profound expression of royal and noble authority. The coral beads, often worn in layers by the Oba (king) and his courtiers, were valuable and symbolised their high rank and divine right to rule. On the palace walls hung brass plaques, meticulously crafted with depictions of pivotal historical events and royal triumphs. These ceremonial artefacts projected the empire’s opulence and enduring legacy. The elaborate craftsmanship in Benin jewellery was a clear visual assertion of the wearer’s influence and the empire’s grandeur.
The Ashanti Empire: Golden Splendor (1670 – 1902)
In modern-day Ghana, the Ashanti Empire, renowned for its rich deposits of gold, used jewellery as a critical symbol of power and prestige. Gold ornaments were not just lavish accessories but vital elements of the Ashanti’s cultural and political identity. Royalty and elites wore elaborate gold jewellery, including golden bracelets, necklaces, and headpieces, which signified their high status and connection to the divine. The intricate designs often included symbols of power and authority, such as the “Sika Dwa Kofi” (Golden Stool), a sacred symbol of the Ashanti kingship. Wearing such pieces was a public declaration of their divine right to rule and their role as intermediaries between the gods and their people.
Morocco: Berber jewellery and symbolic adornments (7th Century – Present)
In Morocco, especially among the Berber communities, jewellery has long been a marker of wealth and power. Berber jewellery, crafted from silver and adorned with coral, amber, and semi-precious stones, was used to display its wearer’s affluence and social standing. Wealthy individuals and tribal leaders wore large, elaborate pieces, including heavy necklaces, bracelets, and headpieces, to demonstrate their status. These ornate pieces were often passed down through generations, serving as family heirlooms that signified the continuity of wealth and power.
South Africa: Zulu Beadwork (19th Century – Present)
In Zulu culture, beadwork is a form of personal adornment and a powerful symbol of social status and heritage. Powerful individuals, including kings and wealthy elites, used elaborate beadwork to signify their high standing. Zulu kings and queens, such as Shaka Zulu, Dingane, Queen Nandi and Cetshwayo, wore beadwork that reflected their royal status and warrior prowess. Wealthy and influential members of Zulu society adorned themselves with colourful bead necklaces, bracelets, and headbands, especially during ceremonies and important events, to display their power and social rank.
Present day: The symbolism of Jewellery now
Today, jewellery from prestigious brands is still more than just a fashion statement—it’s a symbol of power and influence. Pop culture underscores its significance: showcasing success and celebrating personal milestones.
High-profile individuals favour pieces like the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra necklace, not just for their elegance but also for the status they convey. Since its creation in 1968, the Alhambra has become a hallmark of refined taste and wealth, often seen on royalty, celebrities, and influential figures. The allure of these pieces lies in their ability to signal one’s social standing and sophistication.
Consider the British royal family, whose jewels are not mere accessories but emblems of historical and cultural power. These pieces are often passed down through generations, each carrying a story and a legacy that reinforces their elite status.
Similarly, in the music industry, rappers like Nicki Minaj and Cardi B flaunt bling chains and grills, transforming jewellery into symbols of success and street credibility. These ostentatious displays are not just about wealth but about making bold statements and asserting dominance in their field.
In Nigeria, jewellery plays a significant role in social gatherings, especially weddings. Events like the Ojude Oba festival are prime examples where guests adorn themselves with dazzling pieces to reflect their social standing and wealth. Each shiny new piece is a testament to their success and a means of showcasing their status to the community. Even on the streets, everyday women wear jewellery to express their individuality and enhance their presence, making a statement about who they are.
The future of jewellery
We’re witnessing a shift in the jewellery industry towards lab-grown and ethical sourcing. Unlike traditional mining, often associated with exploitation and environmental harm, lab-grown jewels offer a sustainable alternative. New jewellery brands are leading this change, providing ethically sourced materials that align with modern values of responsibility and transparency.
This evolution reflects a broader trend where true prestige involves wealth and a commitment to positive impact. Wearing a stunning piece of lab-grown jewellery supports fair labour practices and environmental conservation. This new definition of luxury represents a more conscientious approach to power and status in the modern world.
Jewellery has always been and will continue to be a potent symbol of power. It tells our stories, holds our secrets, and asserts our place in the world. So, the next time you put on your favourite piece, remember you’re not just accessorising; you’re making history.
