Lisa Folawiyo: Power, purpose, and the future of African fashion

It is one thing to momentarily harness power — to shimmer briefly in the spotlight, to spark like lightning in a torrentuous storm. It is another thing entirely to carry that power with grace, decade after decade, letting it evolve, sharpen, soften, and deepen without ever losing its brilliance. Lisa Folawiyo is that rare force. She is a designer — yes, but more than that, she is a cultural custodian, an architect of elegance, of history rendered modern, of identity stitched into every seam.

 

On a bright, beautiful Friday afternoon at CRADL Studios in the heart of Lekki, I sat across from Lisa — poised, gracious, impossibly stylish, her presence more composed than commanding. We talked, uninterrupted, about legacy, identity, and the work behind the wonder. Her rise wasn’t meteoric; it was meticulous. It is a story not of sudden acclaim, but of intention — the kind that plants deep roots before it ever reaches the light. Of prints and patterns, yes, but also of perseverance and power.

 

In an industry that moves fast and forgets faster, Lisa Folawiyo has built something that lasts. Not only in the durability of her brand, but in the clarity of her vision: Nigerian fashion as a global, sustainable, and culturally grounded movement. Her story isn’t just an origin tale — it’s a blueprint. This is Lisa’s power playbook. And this — carefully, generously — is the future, according to her.

From passion to power: The rise of Lisa Folawiyo

Lisa Folawiyo’s journey doesn’t begin in the predictable halls of fashion’s traditional gatekeepers. No design school pedigree, no inherited atelier. It begins instead in the most radical place: within herself. A woman who loved beautiful things. Who paid attention to detail. Who believed — almost instinctively — that she could create something extraordinary from the ordinary. “For someone who’s always had a love for and interest in all things fashion, my decision to become a fashion designer was not surprising to me and others,” she says, her tone calm, assured, unhurried.

 

“To me, there was an undeniable gap in the fashion space, one where fashion made in Nigeria wasn’t yet seen through a modern and contemporary lens. I decided to fill this gap in my own way.”

 

The early years were a brutal, intimate struggle — every misstep was hers alone, every breakthrough hard-won. “There were times I wanted to quit,” she admits. “Times when I doubted myself, when the challenges felt insurmountable.” But what carried her forward wasn’t ego; it was a quiet, unyielding resolve. “Every obstacle was a lesson, a chance to solve a problem,” she says. “I literally took it one day at a time.” This relentless consistency — that daily return to the work — became the rhythm that anchored her. In those unseen moments of perseverance, Lisa didn’t just build a brand; she crafted a vision that would redefine the future of African fashion.

She didn’t just create clothes. She created conversation — reframing what was possible for Nigerian textiles, identity, and the global gaze. Her muse was Ankara, a fabric so ubiquitous in West African life that it was nearly invisible in the realm of high fashion. “The goal and vision was to create really cool clothes that were modern and fashion forward,” she says. But this wasn’t a surface-level rebrand. Lisa reimagined Ankara from the inside out — through artisanal techniques like beading, embroidery, and print layering that transformed it from everyday to exquisite.

 

From the outset, Folawiyo’s designs were instantly recognisable for their intricate beading on reimagined Ankara, a technique that elevated the everyday fabric to couture status. Her early collections often featured bold colour combinations and unexpected juxtapositions of traditional prints, setting her apart from conventional Nigerian fashion at the time.

 

“There was a new level of appreciation and desire,” she explains. “From a fabric so simple and common to a luxurious, highly coveted fashion symbol.”

Transforming tradition: Folawiyo’s design ethos

Through her, heritage became haute couture. The familiar became fresh. She made African fashion not just visible but aspirational. In doing so, she didn’t offer a generic “African aesthetic.” She offered something far more powerful — specificity. Place. Presence. This rich cultural fusion, stemming from her Nigerian and Trinidadian roots, deeply informs her collections. “I reference my heritage, my history, and culture in all my collections,” she says. “I use fashion as a medium for storytelling, conveying to the world who I am and where I come from.”

 

Far from being mere costumes, her creations are autobiographies in motion — shaped by Lagos, by lineage, by memory. Worn, they don’t just drape. They speak. This language is often expressed through playful yet feminine silhouettes, brought to life by a masterful use of texture and truly stunning embroidery and embellishments that add layers of intricate detail to each piece.

 

Lisa’s creative process begins not with the usual tools of fashion design — neither mood boards nor sketches. For her, it begins with language. “When I know the direction I want to take, I look for words that embody it,” she shares. “In my studio, I immerse myself in these words. They become the design guide that shapes every stitch, every silhouette.” This approach is not just about fashion — it’s about communicating a deeper, personal story.

This thoughtful approach has resulted in collections that have garnered both critical and commercial success. Her Spring/Summer 2017 collection, showcased at New York Fashion Week, is often cited as a memorable moment. It is also celebrated for its innovative designs and strategic use of Ankara fabric in chic print mixes and contemporary silhouettes, all elevated by her signature intricate embellishments. This collection solidified her position as a leading voice in African fashion. 

 

Similarly, her Autumn/Winter 2018 line, “Texture, Chaos, and Systems,” presented at Rele Gallery in Lagos, further demonstrated her mastery of texture and print, featuring cosmic patterns and celestial motifs applied to modern designs. Even her more recent collaboration with Farfetch’s There Was One in June 2023, which saw her iconic Ankara fabrics reimagined in an eight-piece capsule collection, highlights her consistent ability to blend heritage with contemporary appeal, reaching a wider global audience. These collections serve as powerful examples of how Folawiyo consistently threads new narratives for African fashion.

Building for tomorrow: Her strategic vision

Lisa Folawiyo’s authority is in her restraint, her calm consistency, and the strength it takes to stay rooted amidst ever-shifting trends. There is an elegance to her strategy: not loud or impulsive, but quietly deliberate. From the outside, her brand appears intuitive and effortless. But behind that grace is a sharp mind making calculated decisions. Lisa Folawiyo’s entire career has been defined not by reacting to industry pressure, but by choosing when — and how — to respond. “Authenticity is how I’ve stayed true and consistent,” she says. And in Lisa’s world, authenticity isn’t a buzzword — it’s a blueprint.

 

Lisa made her earliest business decisions with long-term vision in mind. She resisted the immediate gratification of opening a store, focusing instead on showroom presentations and bespoke clients. “You’ve got to do what’s best for your brand and its continued growth and success,” she says. “Sometimes, you have to cut your losses, dust off, and get back on track.” Her choices are rarely flashy, but always considered — and in fashion, that kind of discipline is a power play. 

 

Lisa’s path hasn’t been without disruption, but she remains composed. “Every challenge is an opportunity for growth,” she reflects. She’s faced financial limitations, industry resistance, and a market increasingly crowded with imitators of her unique vision. “People may say imitation is flattery,” she says thoughtfully, “but it’s a challenge to your identity. I had to stay grounded and find new ways to innovate.”

But even there, Lisa doesn’t lose her footing. Instead of retaliating, she innovates. She responded by introducing custom LF prints — intricately designed, unmistakably hers, and nearly impossible to replicate. “It forced me to dig deep and be innovative,” she says. “To go where only I could go.” That’s the core of her strategy: when the pressure builds, she doesn’t break — she evolves. “Don’t react — respond. Don’t panic — pivot.”

 

That mindset is foundational to the Lisa Folawiyo brand. Whether it’s a business move or a creative decision, everything is intentional. She built her label from home, growing it organically until expansion was a strategic next step — not a rushed one. She’s never diluted her identity to gain mainstream acceptance, and she has remained fiercely protective of her creative process.

 

Reflecting on her journey, Lisa shares, “The biggest challenge you’ll face is yourself. We often stand in our own way — whether it’s through imposter syndrome, lack of confidence, or creative blocks. But acknowledging those struggles is where the solution starts. It’s about recognising the moments when you doubt yourself and still choosing to keep going.” This honesty underscores not just her resilience but the very human struggle of self-belief that many creatives face.

 

Her journey, while deeply personal, was never solely about individual success. It became about carving a path for those who would come after her — creating a foundation for future generations of African designers. As she navigated her own challenges, Lisa unexpectedly stepped into a new role: a mentor. Where she had found little guidance in her early days, she became the compass for others, offering not just wisdom but also the support that was once missing from her own experience.

Empowering the future: Legacy in action

As we drew close to the end of our conversation, I asked who Lisa Folawiyo would have been if she hadn’t become a designer. She pauses for a moment, considering the alternate path.

“I was a lawyer,” she says with a soft smile. “Even though I can’t really imagine it, perhaps I’d still be practicing law if I hadn’t gone into fashion.”

But everything about her presence — the ease, the clarity, the way she redefines heritage without ever abandoning it — suggests she was made for this work. For storytelling through silhouette and thread. For building not just a brand but a new creative language. One rooted in culture, elevated by vision, and sustained by consistency. Her longevity has never relied on spectacle. Instead, it’s come from quiet, radical commitment.

“The biggest risk was starting,” she says plainly. “And here we are today.”

There’s a rare kind of power in a woman who holds the door open behind her — not out of obligation, but out of belief. Lisa has become a compass for the next generation of Nigerian designers, many of whom are still discovering what their voices sound like. And when they ask how she did it, her answer is both direct and expansive.

 

“Have a vision. Make a plan. Stick to it. Educate yourself — whether formally trained or intentionally learning on the job. Determine your point of view and stay true to it,” she adds. Lisa isn’t interested in shortcuts. She isn’t interested in vanity metrics. Her advice is rooted in discipline — a steady, strategic climb that places intention over noise. But even as she emphasises personal clarity, she refuses the myth of the lone genius. Lisa believes in community just as much as creativity.

 

“Think less me, more us. Focus on your team, your community, your environment, and the industry at large,” she says. She believes that focusing on the collective — your team, your community, the industry — creates an environment where everyone can thrive. Her legacy, then, is not only in her designs but in the community she continues to build around her work, mentoring, supporting, and uplifting the next generation of designers.

 

For her, influence isn’t measured by applause — it’s measured by how many others rise because of your work. Mentorship isn’t decorative. It’s vital. It’s an offering of what wasn’t always available to her in her early days: encouragement, knowledge, and access.

There’s a rare kind of power in a woman who holds the door open behind her — not out of obligation, but out of belief. Lisa has become a compass for the next generation of Nigerian designers, many of whom are still discovering what their voices sound like. And when they ask how she did it, her answer is both direct and expansive.

 

“Have a vision. Make a plan. Stick to it. Educate yourself — whether formally trained or intentionally learning on the job. Determine your point of view and stay true to it,” she adds. Lisa isn’t interested in shortcuts. She isn’t interested in vanity metrics. Her advice is rooted in discipline — a steady, strategic climb that places intention over noise. But even as she emphasises personal clarity, she refuses the myth of the lone genius. Lisa believes in community just as much as creativity.

 

“Think less me, more us. Focus on your team, your community, your environment, and the industry at large,” she says. She believes that focusing on the collective — your team, your community, the industry — creates an environment where everyone can thrive. Her legacy, then, is not only in her designs but in the community she continues to build around her work, mentoring, supporting, and uplifting the next generation of designers.

 

For her, influence isn’t measured by applause — it’s measured by how many others rise because of your work. Mentorship isn’t decorative. It’s vital. It’s an offering of what wasn’t always available to her in her early days: encouragement, knowledge, and access.

“Mentorship means encouraging, inspiring, teaching and empowering others within my capabilities and knowledge,” she says. “I’m drawn to those who not only have talent but a true passion for fashion and a focus on creating a successful brand.”

 

And Lisa doesn’t sugarcoat the realities of the business. She speaks frankly about the structural challenges still holding the Nigerian fashion ecosystem back — unreliable supply chains, quality control gaps, a shortage of skilled artisans. She’s not interested in pretending those problems don’t exist. But she’s even more interested in fixing them.

 

She offers that mentorship in her own quiet, consistent way — not for optics but for impact. Whether it’s through behind-the-scenes guidance or formal mentorship initiatives, she’s actively investing in the future she wants to see: one where Nigerian fashion isn’t just creatively excellent but also structurally sound. As she cultivated her own authenticity, she made space for others to do the same — mentoring and supporting generations of designers who share the same values.

 

A testament to her philosophy is her unwavering support and admiration for both established and emerging designers, including Bridget Awosika, Eki Kere, Kadiju, Orire, Abiola Olusola, and Imad Eduso, among others. This influence resonates deeply within the African fashion landscape, as evidenced by designers across the continent who have cited Lisa Folawiyo as a significant source of inspiration.

Loza Maleombho from Côte d’Ivoire draws from her innovative fusion of traditional textiles and modern silhouettes. Similarly, Nigeria’s Maki Oh, led by Amaka Osakwe, has been influenced by Lisa’s approach to modernizing traditional fabrics and weaving cultural narratives into her designs. Kenneth Ize, another Nigerian designer, admires her use of indigenous textiles and her advocacy for sustainable practices.

 

The impact of her pioneering work is also visible in the aesthetics of Tzar Studios (Nigeria) and the dedication to celebrating African heritage in the designs of Christie Brown (Ghana). Even Adebayo Oke-Lawal of Orange Culture (Nigeria) cites her as an inspiration for reimagining traditional fabrics for contemporary audiences. Lisa Folawiyo’s impact extends beyond her own collections, inspiring several generations of designers who are contributing to the foundation as she has.

 

Her approach to mentorship mirrors her approach to design: thoughtful, layered, and grounded in clarity. There’s no chaos in the process. Instead, there’s rhythm. Ritual. She begins each collection not with sketches but with language. Words become anchors.

 

Those words live on the walls. They guide the fabrics she selects, the textures she layers, and the silhouettes she shapes. It’s a quiet, internal process — the opposite of trend-chasing — but it’s what gives her garments their weight. They speak. And they last.

Where others rush to release collections, Lisa refines. Where others pivot to please, she pauses to reflect. She isn’t creating for the algorithm — she’s creating for permanence. Each decision is intentional. Each collection is a conversation between the past and the possible.

 

Perhaps that’s what sets her apart most: her refusal to chase hype. Instead, she stays rooted — in self, in culture, in purpose. “The biggest challenge you will ever face is yourself. We get in our own way all the time — imposter syndrome, lack of confidence, creative block. But acknowledging those challenges is half the problem solved,” she proclaims.

 

Her legacy, then, is not accidental. It’s not simply the result of talent. It’s the product of craft. Of emotional honesty. Of an unwavering standard. Lisa Folawiyo didn’t just create a brand. She architected a new aesthetic and a new framework — one where African fashion is neither exoticized nor diluted. One where elegance is an act of defiance. One where storytelling is stitched into every seam.

 

In a world that prizes the loudest voice, Lisa reminds us that power can be calm. That leadership can be graceful. That legacy is built not in a moment — but over many seasons, many stitches, and many choices rooted in truth.