Sweet but not too sweet, warm but with an edge. Neo-gourmand could dominate the fragrance world.
Perfume trends come and go, but the obsession with vanilla never really fades—it just evolves. There was a time when sugary-sweet perfumes like Britney Spears’ Fantasy or Viktor & Rolf’s Bonbon dominated the shelves, evoking the cloying scents of cupcakes and candy floss.
Now, a shift is underway. Fragrance lovers are gravitating towards more sophisticated compositions that balance sweetness with complexity. Enter neo-gourmand — a new wave of fragrances that blend traditional sweet notes with unexpected elements like fruits, spices, and woods, creating elevated and nuanced scent profiles.
This evolution reflects a desire for indulgence with refinement, allowing wearers to experience gourmand scents in fresh and exciting ways. As a result, neo-gourmand is emerging as a trend to watch in 2025.
But this movement isn’t just about vanilla. It reimagines all gourmand scents by adding contrast — salt with caramel, pepper with chocolate, incense with praline. It’s the fragrance equivalent of pairing a cashmere jumper with a leather jacket: cosy yet bold.
What is neo-gourmand?
Traditional gourmand perfumes are unapologetically sweet, often reminiscent of bakery treats. Neo-gourmand, however, keeps the indulgence but deepens the complexity. Think Kilian Angels’ Share, where cinnamon and caramel meet boozy warmth, or Juliette Has a Gun Vanilla Vibes, where classic vanilla collides with salty, sun-kissed skin.
It’s the difference between smelling like a cupcake, and smelling like someone stepping off a private jet, wrapped in a vanilla-scented cashmere scarf.
Influencers and public figures are championing the trend on social media https://vm.tiktok.com/
Social media, particularly TikTok, has played a pivotal role in popularising neo-gourmand fragrances. Influencers and celebrities have reshaped consumer preferences by sharing their personal fragrance routines. Leah Kateb from Love Island sparked a viral trend with her “vanilla girl” shower routine, layering products like Lush’s Sticky Dates body wash and Eos’s Vanilla Cashmere lotion to craft a signature scent. This emphasis on fragrance layering has driven interest in complex, multi-dimensional vanilla scents.
Balancing sustainability with this emerging market trend
As the demand for neo-gourmand rises, so does the need for sustainable ingredient sourcing. Vanilla cultivation, particularly in Madagascar, has contributed to deforestation and biodiversity threats. The Sustainable Vanilla Initiative (SVI) aims to address these concerns by promoting ethical and environmentally responsible vanilla farming. Some brands are also transitioning to organic methods, avoiding synthetic pesticides and fostering healthier ecosystems.
By prioritising sustainable sourcing and eco-friendly innovation, the fragrance industry can continue evolving while minimising environmental impact.
Must-try neo-gourmand perfumes
If you are ready to embrace the neo-gourmand era, here are some standout fragrances leading the trend:
- Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s “Baccarat Rouge 540”
A sophisticated blend of burnt sugar, saffron, and ambergris, creating an alluring and refined scent.
- Kilian Angels’ “Share”
Evoking the warmth of cinnamon cognac; this perfume is perfect for autumn evenings.
-
Glossier’s “You”
A musky, spicy skin scent with a subtle hint of gourmand warmth.
- Juliette Has a Gun’s “Vanilla Vibes”
Fresh, salty accords meet vanilla, transporting you to a serene beachside setting.
- Byredo’s “Slow Dance”
A nostalgic blend of vanilla, incense, and amber, delivering a mature yet evocative sweetness.
-
Kayali’s “Vanilla 28”
Warm and inviting, this fragrance opens with vanilla orchid and jasmine, leading into brown sugar and tonka bean, and settling into amber, musk, and patchouli.
The future of sweet scents
As neo-gourmand continues to redefine the world of fragrance, it’s clear that sweetness is evolving. No longer just about saccharine indulgence, the future of gourmand perfumes lies in sophistication, contrast, and depth
